Question #1: Are there any particular problems that you would expect we would be experiencing with Magnolia tree leaves at this time of year (April)? I have an individual whose magnolia a tree is shedding a few leaves. The leaves get brown areas then eventually turn brown or yellow and fall off the tree. There are not a large number of leaves affected and the tree looks generally healthy. As you would expect there are not a lot of Magnolia trees in Woods County, so I am not really very familiar with them.
Answer: I assume she has a Southern Magnolia, a broadleaf evergreen tree. If the leaves that are dying and falling off are those that are closest to the trunk on the limb and not out towards the tip, then this could just be some natural shedding of the older leaves. All evergreens lose leaves that are generally two to three years old. If they are newer leaves out towards the tip or end of branches, then it could be due to winter desiccation. The dry winter winds will cause the plant to desiccate and drop some of the leaves. Winter irrigation will usually take care of that problem. So, she may want to irrigate the area well now, it has been a relatively dry winter, and remind her to irrigate next winter when we go 2 weeks or more without any precipitation.
******************************************************************************************************************* Question #2: How can I tell if my pine tree is a female or a male? I would like to
Answer: A pine tree produces both male and female cones or flowers on the same tree. The cone that we are most familiar with, and which produces the pine nut or seed, is the female cone. The female cone, depending on the species, is much larger than the male cone (2" or more), is greenish yellow or reddish in color when young turning brown with maturity, has thick woody scales, and is usually found in upper branches of tree or at ends of branches when both cones are present on the same branch.
Depending on the species of pine the male flower is usually shorter (about 1"), thin, yellow, with thin papery scales, found on lower branches or when on the same branch further in along the branch. It is the male cone that produces the heavy yellow cloud of pollen in the spring.
I hope this is what you are looking for and will help. If you need further information there are many reference books available on pines. There is also a good book called "Biology of Plants" fourth edition by Raven, Evert and Eichhorn which gives a good description and pictures on pages 340-343.
******************************************************************************************************************** Question #3: I would like to know where to get trees from the state for my farm in Nowata, OK. Any information would be appreciated.
Answer: The Oklahoma Dept of Agriculture Forestry Services have offices located around the state and can offer assistance. Forestry Services does offer seedlings for conservation purposes. The office closest to you is in Jay, OK. District forester is Mark Goeller, phone: 918-253-4268. The Forest Nursery is in Goldsby, OK near Norman. Phone: 405-288-2385. You may contact them to see fi your project fits their criteria.
Another option would be to explore the possibility of receiving a grant to purchase and plant the trees. For more information on available grants contact the State Department of Agriculture Forestry Services 405-521-3864. or 1-800-517-3673.
******************************************************************************************************************** Question #4: I have two sweet gum trees in our front yard, and I need to know if there is something that I can spray on them so they will not produce the "fruit." I dislike the spike balls, but I do love the trees and do not want to take them out. Thanks for your time. Answer: Sweet gum balls can be controlled with the product Florel Fruit Eliminator made by Monterey Lawn and Garden products, Inc. If your local garden center does not carry it, they can order some for you.
The best time to apply Florel is when the tree is in mid to full bloom stage. Timing is everything! The ideal time for spraying is right after the tiny balls form below the catkin. After application, the tiny balls simply dry up and fall off.
You can check with a local nursery to get the cultivar name of the seedless Sweet Gum for future or additional plantings.
******************************************************************************************************************* Question #5: Is there any palm trees you could recommend that would grow in central Oklahoma?
Answer: No, there really aren't any that we recommend for Oklahoma. I have heard of some people growing them in the far southeast corner of the state where it is typically milder. However, that is an exception to the rule and they are probably well protected. What seems to be more of a problem than the actual minimum temperature (within reason) with palms, is the duration of it. If the temperature dips down for just a few hours, they may take it, but if it stays for a few days, they can't. The only species that I know of listed for your area, and even that is iffy, is Needle palm (Rhapidophyllum hystrix).
Unless you have a greenhouse/atrium environment, I would stay clear of planting any palms outside unless you can bring them indoors for the winter.
******************************************************************************************************************** Question #6: I need info on windbreak strategies. I want to put a cedar break on the north side of my house. The break will probably be 250-300 feet long. I know I want female cedars. I need to know how far between trees, how to plant them, where to get them, etc. Watering will be a problem, it is in limited access. Also I don't want teeny weenie trees. Would like to plant as big as I can without large cost. Soil is very tight, lots of clay.
Answer: Planting large trees without an adequate source or supply of irrigation until the plants can become established will likely prove costly and detrimental. Small seedlings may be more forgiving and certainly cheaper making it easier to lose a few. For information and a source of windbreak material I would suggest you contact the State Forestry Nursery in Goldsby, OK. Phone number is 405-288-2385 or 1-800-517-3673.
******************************************************************************************************************** Question #7: We have purchased an acreage w/a juniper tree lined drive. I'm not sure the age but they are quite large. I husband wants to cut them down and line the drive with something else. I had seen live oaks in a book and was told they won't work here. My dream is to have a drive lined with large trees that will canopy the drive.
Is it possible in this red clay? Can you tell me where I can go for help?
Answer: Depending on the availability of water, drainage, and pH of soil, the following trees may work well for your situation:
American Linden
Littleleaf Linden
Bald Cypress
Common Hackberry
Japanese Zelkova
Kentucky Coffeetree
London Planetree
Bur Oak
Chinquapin Oak
Sawtooth Oak - prefers acid, well-drained soil
Shumard Oak
Water Oak - prefers moist sites
You can also contact your county Cooperative Extension office for help. If you live in Oklahoma County the Extension office there is staffed with trained Master Gardeners who can also assist you.
******************************************************************************************************************** Question 8: I live in Weatherford, OK, is it too late to plant a crape myrtle? Should I wait until spring? I'm also thinking about planting a saucer magnolia and a redbud, when should I do this?
Answer: The fall months are actually the best time to plant most trees and shrubs. There is less stress on the plant, top growth has begun to slow, and more energy is place on root growth. This gives the plant an advantage come next summer when the heat hits again. So go for it!
********************************************************************************************************************* Question 9: I have about 200 Black Jack trees in my yard. My yard has fescue grass in it so I have to water it almost all summer and fall. My water has a great deal of calcium init and over the years is beginning to turn the trees a white chalky color and I am afraid that it is not good for the bark. Do you know of any solution to this problem.
Answer: First of all, are you sure it is calcium? There are other elements that can cause chalky residues. If you have not done an irrigation water test you may want to do one. The calcium itself is probably not a concern, but the biproducts or elements that can be associated with it could alter the soil chemistry a great deal. In any event, I am not so worried about the white chalky residue on the trunks as I am the additional irrigation to the area and what it could be doing to the soil pH and available nutrients. Blackjack oaks typically grow in dry, sandy soils and don't take to kindly to drastic environmental or site changes. Dumping large amounts of water to the area in an effort to keep your grass alive may prove detrimental to your trees in the long run. Blackjacks are slow growers and don't adjust to change very well. I would be very surprised if you haven't lost some of the oaks already and would guess that you will lose some in the near future if you do not alter your irrigation practices or even stop irrigating all together.
I know this is probably not what you wanted to hear, but in our experience, native oak forests frequently die or begin to die within years after developers have come in and altered the natural growing environment to build homes.
****************************************************************************************************************** Question 10: I have a Silver Queen Maple I planted in my front yard 2 years ago. I am planning to plant 3 more. Would there be much differance if I planted additional Silver Maple as oppost to more Silver Queen?
Answer: Silver Queen is just a cultivar of the silver maple selected for being more upright oval-rounded in growth habit (50' x 40') and supposedly fruitless. Otherwise it is just another silver maple. Please realize that silver maples are large trees (50-70' tall and 2/3 wide) and should be given plenty of room to grow. They are not the best choice for small or even average-sized landscapes. They are somewhat brittle, have very shallow root systems that tend to take over flower beds and lawns as they mature, and roots can buckle sidewalks and clog drain tiles. They are tough trees and will grow in poor soils, but they prefer moist soils that are slightly acid.
******************************************************************************************************************* Question #11:My magnolia (40 yrs old) has been defoliating this spring. There are no visible bugs. Do you know what is happening to it and if there is a remedy?
Answer: Loss of some leaves on magnolia can be normal. If the leaves that are falling are inside the tree, away from the tips and new growth, then they are probably older leaves that will naturally drop. If you are seeing leaves drop from last year and even some from this year then something else may be wrong with the tree. We did have a harsh winter and many magnolias have been affected by the weather conditions. Check for splits and cracks on the trunks and limbs, which could indicate winter damage. However, cracks and splits are not always present as the roots of the tree could have been damaged also. Typically magnolias don't have many pest problems, but there are a few that could have been triggered by weather conditions. I would suggest you contact your County Extension Office and visit with them about other possibilities. A sample of limbs and leaves may be necessary to diagnose the problem. Pictures can also be helpful.
Keeping the plant from further stress may be the only thing you can do for it now. If new growth has emerged and then dropped or withered and died with no new growth appearing, then there may not be anything you can do. Time will only tell. ************************************************************************************************************************* Question #12: I am wondering if you could direct me to someone that does know which camellia plants do well in Oklahoma. I live in Broken Arrow by the way. I am from Japan and used to see a lot of beautiful Camellia trees and shrubs there, but hardly have seen any since I came to this country. When I went to Savannah last year, I missed Camellia season by a couple of weeks unfortunately. Although I didn't see any flowering Camellia, I did recognize Camellia trees/shrubs because of their leaves. Well, I am hoping you can help me so I can plant four Camellia plants in my garden. Thank you very much.
Answer: There are two common species of camellia, Japanese and sasanqua. Both are cold hardy to zone 7, but supposedly sasanqua are slightly hardier than Japanese camellias. The flower buds are less cold hardy and can often be killed by cold winter weather. Hardiness seems to vary based upon cultivars and there are many, many cultivars available. I would visit with neighbors and local nursery personnel for recommendations in your area. Camellias do best in moist acid soils. This can be assisted by modifying or amending the soils and mulching heavily. They grow best in partial shade or in full sun as long as the site is not excessively hot. In very dense shade, flowers may be suppressed and plants become spindly and open.
************************************************************************************************************************* Question #13: I Am looking for any information on shelter belts or wind breaks.
Answer: You can contact the Dept. of Agriculture Forestry Services for more information on wind breaks and shelter belts. They even have seedlings available for conservation and reforestation purposes. The state office phone number is 405-521-3864 ext. 296. There is also a fact sheet available F-5007 Windbreak Site Preparation, Spacing, and Arrangement. You can get a copy of this publication by contacting your local Cooperative Extension Service office or by going to the following web site: http://osuextra.com.