Question #1: I want to plant some shrubs and bushes around my existing patio. What would be the best thing to plant on the south side in full sunlight that would be exposed to the Oklahoma wind?
Answer: Actually your question opens a big can of worms. There are literally hundreds of choices depending on your preferences. Obviously shrubs come in many shapes, sizes and colors, etc. Do you want flowers, fall color, evergreen, fruit, etc.?
Any way, here are a few suggestions.
Magic Carpet spirea
dwarf burning bush
miniature or dwarf crape myrtles
heavenly bamboo (Nandina)
viburnums
junipers (many types)
deciduous holly
glossy abelia
Don't forget the ornamental grasses - many species
St. Johnswort
For a description of these plants visit your local garden center.
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Question #2: I would like to know the best type of soil in which to grow peonies. I have had one plant for 8 years and it just barely grows. I need help.
Answer: Peonies demand good drainage and the soil should be deep and very well enriched with thoroughly rotted manure or compost. Care must be taken to set the stout, fleshy roots so that their "eyes" are no deeper than 1 - 2" deep; deep planting is a common cause of lack of flowers. Most thrive in full sun, although they should be shaded from intense summer sun in our region. Avoid sites with overhanging trees or shrubs; do not plant too close to a south-facing wall. Peonies can have disease and insect problems that can easily be controlled with the proper pesticide. Early blooming species or cultivars may do better as they will bloom before the heat sets in.
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Question #3: Yew was recommended to me by a nurseryman, as a low maintenance hearty foundation plant for the north side. He did not mention its toxicity. What soil and pest amendments do I need to concern myself with? Is this a good choice?
Answer: Yew is a good plant for the north sides of buildings as long as the soil drains very well. Usually when I hear of yews failing it is because of poor drainage, they do not like wet feet. Prepare the area by loosening the soil with a tiller or by hand with a garden spade. Going 10 to 12 inches deep is ideal. The addition of composted organic matter is almost always beneficial. Add 3-4 inches to the area and work uniformly into soil. If the area sits low, is heavy clay, and/or drains poorly, consider raised beds by additions of more topsoil or constructing raised areas with landscape timber or similar material. Or install a drainage system of some sort. There are two yew varieties that have been evaluated in Oklahoma and are recommended (Thayeri and Runyan), though other varieties may also do well. Even though yews are toxic, I have not heard of any cases of poisoning due to these plants.
Depending on the space available, level of light available, soil conditions, and region of Oklahoma that you live in, here are a few other options: nandina, drooping leucothoe, Otto Luyken laurel, azalea, leatherleaf mahonia, St. John's wort, glossy abelia, winter jasmine, and Virginia sweetspire
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Question #4: My azalea bush and rhododendron are turning yellow. The bushes are located in two entirely different areas in my garden. The azalea gets a lot of sun and the other gets partial sun but more shade. The outer aspects of the leaves are green but the centers of the leaves are yellowing. What do you think could be causing this problem>
Answer: A lot of things could be the cause of what you are describing on your azaleas and rhododendrons. I would suggest you take some samples into your local garden center or the County Cooperative Extension Service office to help with diagnosing this problem. Typically they both prefer rich, well drained, acid soils and thus are best adapted to the eastern half of Oklahoma. The site should be partially shaded (preferably shaded from late afternoon sun) and sheltered from strong winds during summer and winter. The pH should be between 5.0 and 6.0. Daily irrigation is necessary during dry, hot weather and often in c old, dry weather. Keep the plants mulched. Do not cultivate around plants. Specialty fertilizers are available from azaleas and rhododendrons that may be helpful. You may also want to consider having a soil test done to determine pH of soil and nutrient levels of soil.
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Question #5: I am currently living in Dallas, TX and have a pool located at my residence. I have had a problem with individuals climbing my fence and swimming without my approval. While I was at Oklahoma State I can recall a set of bushed located around campus that were hedges with very large thorns. These hedges were planted around most of the sidewalks to keep people from cutting through the grass. Can you tell me the name of these hedges and are they readily available for sale to the public. These shrubs may be helpful with my problem.
Answer: The plant you are referring to is the Trifoliate-orange, Hardy-orange (Poncirus trifoliata). It is not the most common landscape plant, but you should be able to find it in the nurseries there in Dallas. If none are to be found, ask one of the local nurseries to order some for you. I found one wholesale nursery in Texas that sells them - Doremus Wholesale Nursery, Warren, TX 409-547-3536.
Other plant material that could be considered would be hollies (cultivars with spiny leaves), yucca, barberry, and bush roses. However, as you are aware, the thorns on the trifoliate-orange are quite intimidating.
***********************************************************************************************************************************Question #6: When should we plant bare root roses in Oklahoma City?
Answer: Bare root roses should be planted in early to mid-spring before the new shoots start to develop (February-March).
You may find additional information on planting roses and other garden questions by going to the following web site www.hortla.okstate.edu and click on Lawn and Garden then Horticulture info fact sheets. You may also contact your local County Extension office at 405-713-1125.
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Question #7: I am wondering if you could direct me to someone that does know which camellia plants do well in Oklahoma. I live in Broken Arrow by the way. I am from Japan and used to see a lot of beautiful Camellia trees and shrubs there, but hardly have seen any since I came to this country. When I went to Savannah last year, I missed Camellia season by a couple of weeks unfortunately. Although I didn't see any flowering Camellia, I did recognize Camellia trees because of their leaves. Well, I am hoping you can help me so I can plant four Camellia plants in my garden. Thank you very much.
Answer: There are two common species of camellia, Japanese and sasanqua. Both are cold hardy to zone 7, but supposedly sasanqua are slightly hardier than Japanese camellias. The flower buds are less cold hardy and can often be killed by cold winter weather. Hardiness seems to vary based upon cultivars and there are many, many cultivars available. I would visit with neighbors and local nursery personnel for recommendations in your area. Camellias do best in moist acid soils. This can be assisted by modifying or amending the soils and mulching heavily. They grow best in partial shade or in full sun as long as the site is not excessively hot. In very dense shade, flowers may be suppressed and plants become spindly and open.
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Question #8: I live in southwestern Kansas just above the Oklahoma panhandle and have a similar climate and very sandy soil near the Arkansas river. Can I grow hydrangeas here? If so what do I need to do to be successful? It's scientific name is Hydrangea macrophylla 'Berlin'. It's a small plant right now and I received it a an Easter gift and would like to set it outside if it has a chance of survival. Like to hear what you think. Thanks for your assistance.
Answer: Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf Hydrangea) is hardy in zones 6 to 9. You are on the edge of zone 6 and thus your plant may not be hardy. Actually, there are over 500 cultivars listed, many of which are not hardy. Even if it were to survive, at least at the crown, it may not flower if growth from the previous year is damaged. Bigleaf hydrangea flowers (largely) on last year's growth and freezing weather and late frosts can make flowering history.
If you wish to try it outside, hydrangea prefer moist, well-drained soil which has been amended with peat moss, leaf mold, and the like; full sun to partial shade; moisture is a necessity or plants will wilt and die. Otherwise, plant in a nice decorative pot and move indoors during winter.