| September 2007
Oklahoma Gardening Shows
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Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3413)
OETA air date: September 29 and 30, 2007
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.
Seeding Cool-season Lawns – Dr. Dennis Martin, OSU Turfgrass Extension Specialist, joins us to demonstrate how to establish cool-season lawns. Assistant Extension Specialist J. Pye joins us as well.
Late September and into October is the best time to establish cool-season grasses. Cool-season grasses should be used only in shaded areas where warm-season grasses have not worked well. It is not advisable to use cool-season grass simply because they are green in winter. They require much more water and have more disease problems in Oklahoma than warm-season grasses.
It is important to look at the past performance of turf species to decide what grass is right for any given situation. If tall fescue has worked well for you in shaded areas, then continue using what has worked. If your cool-season grass has suffered damage during the summer for several years, but has reasonable persistence, then you may wish to try a tall fescue/ Kentucky bluegrass mix. Use or create mixes with 90 to 95% tall fescue, and 5 to 10% Kentucky bluegrass.
If you have lost 100% or near this amount each year of your tall fescue stand, then it is time to move away from turfgrass and try either a hardscape element or shade tolerant ground cover. Remember, turfgrass is not always the solution.
There are certain mixes and grasses to avoid. Never use an exclusively 100% Kentucky bluegrass or 100% perennial ryegrass as a turfgrass stand in Oklahoma due to their susceptibility to summer stress and/or diseases.
Annual ryegrass is not recommended for the home lawn. Annual ryegrass is sometimes used as a "nursegrass" to temporarily stabilize soil during the cool months of the year, but this strategy usually fails in the lawn. Also, avoid seed mixes containing annual ryegrass (such as a Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, and annual ryegrass mix). The problem is annual ryegrass out competes perennial grasses during the cool season, then dies out in the heat of summer when the perennial species are stressed and unable to fill in the empty patches.
Another grass to avoid is creeping red fescue, either alone or in seed mixes. This plant generally does not do well in Oklahoma.
Before we begin lawn establishment it is important to take a soil sample. Sample bags are available from your local county extension office, and samples can be sent to these offices for processing. Take samples from the upper two inches of soil, but be sure to first remove any organic matter collected at the soil surface. Collect samples from about 15 different areas in the lawn and mix these in a bucket. Then, fill the soil sample bag using a mixture of the soil collected. It is important you put the soil directly into the sample bag and do not use a plastic bag as this will interfere with the analysis process.
You should obtain results in a bout two weeks, at which time you can plan your lawn renovation. The first step is to till the soil. The soil test results will indicate if any gross adjustments in nutrients or pH are necessary. If adjustments are necessary, you will mix in fertilizers and or materials to amend the pH (i.e. lime) during the tillage process. If you are seeding beneath trees, be careful not to damage roots during tillage. If roots are present, till shallowly with a heavy rake.
After tilling, use a garden rake to level the soil and fill in any imperfections or indentations. We strive to achieve a 0.5% slope to allow water to drain from the lawn. After raking, use a roller filled with water to smooth the area and compress the soil. Then, gently rake the surface with a fine-tined rake to break apart the crust.
We are now ready to seed and fertilize. Use a starter fertilizer (N-P-K) applying 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per 1000ft2. The seeding and fertilizing steps can be interchanged, it does not matter whether seeding or fertilizing occurs first. However, never try to mix fertilizer with seed in the hopper, the two have different particle sizes and different densities and the more dense material (fertilizer) will sink to the bottom the hopper and the seed will float on top. It is best to seed in afternoon or after the dew is off so you do track seed on the bottom of wet shoes out into other areas of the lawn where you don't want clumps of tall fescue starting.
Finally, mix the seed into the soil to a depth of about 1/8 inch by lightly raking with the fine-tined rake and roll the area once again to ensure good contact between the seed and soil. A light mulch such as clean wheat straw will help retain soil moisture and stabilize soil and seed before germination. Keep the area moist with light daily waterings for 10 to 14 days. After the seed germinates and becomes established, maintain with deeper, less frequent waterings.
We use a drop spreader to seed our area. You can rent a spreader and a roller rather than purchase this equipment, as it is not often used once the lawn is established. You can also use a rotary spreader, which is faster, but more difficult to calibrate. Hand held rotary spreaders are convenient for steep slopes and other areas where it is difficult to move equipment. Hand spreaders do not easily calibrate, so it is a good idea to measure out the area to be seeded and the appropriate amount of seed to cover that area.
For more information see OSU Fact Sheet HLA-6419 "Establishing a Lawn in Oklahoma".
Tour of Lynn Hughes' Garden – We visit the home gardens of Lynn Hughes, in Stillwater, Oklahoma. Lynn has been a garden ambassador since the program began in 1993 and is one of five original ambassadors still with the program today.
OSUBG/Oklahoma Gardening Ambassadors are volunteers who work in the Oklahoma Gardening studio gardens and the OSU Botanical Garden. They receive training through a series of thirteen weekly classes and dedicate their time in the gardens and grounds. New classes are beginning in January. Contact Stephanie Larimer at (405) 744-5404 if you are interested in becoming a garden Ambassador.
Lynn uses large island beds with broad, sweeping edges to fill large spaces in the landscape. She uses curved lines to soften the area, and has an excellent variety of plant material to provide diversity in height, color, and texture.
A large border runs along the entire edge of her property. This was built for several reasons. Behind the border a drainage ditch carries runoff from the surrounding neighborhood. They experienced flooding from this ditch and water collecting near the foundation of the house. By building a raised border they were able to redirect the water out of the yard. The border planting also makes a screen, providing privacy.
The border again utilizes a variety of plant material to add height and privacy, including grasses, shrubs, evergreens, and trellises filled with Sweet Autumn Clematis (Clematis ternifolia). This is a fall-blooming clematis with fragrant white blooms covering the plant in early autumn. The seed heads are also attractive, with wispy, silver feather-like styles.
We look at Magilla pedilla, a relatively new plant on the market, introduced some five years ago. This relative of coleus has swept gardeners with its magnificent and colorful foliage in shades of purple, pink, green, and cream. It is fast growing and heat tolerant. This plant has quickly become a favorite of many gardeners.
Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!
Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host***********************************************************************************************************
Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3412)
OETA air date: September 22 and 23, 2007
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.
Bagworms – Dr. Eric Rebek, Entomology Extension Specialist in Turfgrass and Ornamental Pests, joins Kim to tell us a little about his new position at Oklahoma State University and to discuss a common landscape pest – the bagworm.
The bagworm (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis) is a moth whose larvae or caterpillars construct cases from silk and vegetation as they feed. The bags appear as clumps of dead foliage and twigs on the plants and hang, suspended from branch tips. Eric points out the areas where foliage has been removed by the feeding caterpillars.
The caterpillars feed on foliage and construct their cases all season until they pupate in early fall. Following pupation, adult male moths will emerge from their cases and go in search of females. The females do not fly. They stay inside their cases waiting for a male to find them and mate with them. The female then lays eggs inside the bag, falls to the ground and dies. The eggs inside the case will hatch next spring and the process will start all over.
Bagworms attack both deciduous and evergreen trees, but are most damaging to junipers, arborvitae, spruces, pines, and cedar. Large populations of bagworms can strip a tree of its leaves and even cause plant death. Large trees and heavy infestations may require professional treatment.
One way to manage small infestations of these insects without using chemicals is to simply remove and destroy the bags. The fall and winter are good times to remove the bags, before the eggs have hatched. Hand removal is only practical on small trees and shrubs. Don't throw the bags into compost piles, because you will not remove the eggs from the landscape.
Bagworms can also be treated with insecticides in the spring, after the larvae emerge. The microbial insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis or BT provides satisfactory results when applied against young larvae. BT is naturally-derived product that has little or no effect on humans, wildlife, or beneficial insects. Another available insecticide is Fertilome borer, bagworm, leafminer, and tent caterpillar spray. This product contains spinosad, which is a fermentation product; it has good control and is also relatively safe. Ask your local garden center for other products that can be used to manage bagworms.
For more information on bagworms see OSU Fact Sheet EPP-7306 Ornamental & Lawn Pest Control for Homeowners.
Pea-Staking – In this segment we stake the peas that were planted out three weeks ago. The pea seedlings have emerged and we must remove the screen that had been placed over the row to reduce soil temperatures.
Peas grow as a vine and need some type of support system to keep them off the ground. Planting peas along a fencerow is a good option, or you use any number of materials to create a lattice or trellis. The simplest of these is string woven back and forth between two bamboo stakes.
We are using branches to create a structure for our peas to climb. English gardeners have long since used branches to stake perennials with long weak stems like coreopsis, certain campanulas or bellflowers, and hardy asters. The practice is called pea-staking.
It is best to find stems that branch in three dimensions, rather than on a plane. The branch should come to a point at one end to push into the ground near the plant. Peas will require much larger stakes than a perennial might. When you pea-stake your perennials, select branches that are six inches shorter than the mature plant height so that the entire branch is eventually covered. With peas this is not so much a concern, we just want to have sufficient support for our developing vines.
Pea staking provides a very natural, rustic look in our vegetable garden. When used among perennials, the stakes tend to be inconspicuously hidden among the foliage. Best of all, the materials are free.
Pepper Harvest – We harvest sweet bell peppers from our vegetable garden. Peppers are an amazingly diverse group of vegetables – with varieties ranging from unbearable spicy, to sweet and mild. We talk about the color change some peppers undergo. Some gardeners are confused when they grow a red bell pepper variety and find green peppers developing on their plants. Most of our red peppers actually begin green and then ripen to a red color as they mature. These varieties can be eaten green, but they will become sweeter as they mature. Similarly, a spicy pepper will become hotter as it matures.
Yellow bell peppers like the ones we are harvesting, are always yellow. They may turn a little more golden when they are mature. Harvest peppers often throughout the summer to encourage more fruiting. The stems can be fragile, so it is a good idea to cut the peppers from the plant using a sharp knife or hand pruner.
Moving Houseplants Indoors – In this segment we demonstrate how to prepare our houseplants for their return to their winter homes indoors. As a rule of thumb, you will want to move houseplants indoors around the time that the outside temperature is about the same as that indoors. This will give plants a chance to adjust to the indoors before you turn on the heat and avoid unnecessary cold damage to tropicals.
Moving a plant directly from its perch on the sunny patio to its winter home in the dark living room is not advisable. You will shock the plant with the drastic change in light conditions. Instead, you need to acclimate the plant or slowly adjust it to lower light levels. You can do this by moving your plant to more and more heavily shaded areas over the course of a week before finally bringing it inside.
But before you bring plants indoors you will want to check for insects. Many garden pests are transferred indoors with houseplants, where they move out to attack other houseplants or become nuisance pests. Inspect your plants and pots for insects and other invertebrates. Be sure to remove the plants from their pots, because beetles, slugs, pillbugs, and centipedes will live in the soil around the base of the pot. Also check between the pot and the saucer, another favorite hiding place.
Inspect the foliage and stems closely for pests. Aphids, mealybugs, and scales can all move indoors unseen on houseplants, where their populations can explode. If you find these insects, wash them from plants with a heavy stream of water or treat plants with an insecticidal soap. Always read product labels to make sure the soap is compatible with the plant you are treating. You may want to isolate treated plants from your other house plants for a few weeks until you have determined the pests to be under control.
Adding Height to the Patio Garden – In this segment we discuss ways to add height and dimension to small areas, using the patio garden as an example. When working in small areas we need to utilize all available space, including the vertical space in and around the patio or yard. Growing vertically will also add a layer of complexity and diversity to the garden.
There are several ways to utilize vertical space. Perhaps the most common is to use hanging baskets with trailing or draping plants. Every year new plants are introduced for use in baskets. When selecting plants for baskets, incorporate flowers as well as foliage. Many plants with trailing foliage are used to enhance baskets.
Trellises and other support structures direct the growth of vines and other climbers skyward. Many traditional trellises are built of wood or metal, but you can use any erect structure to train climbing plants. You can even build a simple, rustic trellis from fallen branches. The selection of climbing plants is endless. Clematis, Climbing Roses (Rosa spp.), and Ivy (Hedera helix) are traditional favorites. Shade tolerant climbers include Coral Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris), and several Clematis cultivars.
Many grasses grow tall and lean, providing that vertical element we seek, but not taking up a great deal of space in the soil. They also tend to tolerate dry soils and do well in containers. The many varieties of ornamental grass available offer a range of colorful blades, like Pink Fountain Grass (Pennisetum setaceum). You also find a variety of attractive flower spikes like those of Feather Reed Grass cultivar (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) 'Karl Forester'.
Another way to add some height to the garden is to plant in tall containers and planters, many of which can be raised on a pedestal. When you select plants for your containers, think about filling space at three levels: above the planter, at the soil surface, and below the planter. Look for tall flowers or grasses that will bring up the overall height of the planting, and include trailing or draping plants that will spill over the edge and utilize lower spaces.
If you don't have soil in your garden, add some. You can construct a planting box of wood or stone and haul in the topsoil to create a space for planting. Apply the three-level planting scheme to raised boxes or beds.
Finally, shrubs or small trees, such as crepe myrtle, can be potted or planted in a small patch of soil to add focal points that reach skyward. It is important to consider how you will winter your potted plants when making selections. Many potted woody and herbaceous perennials will not survive in pots on the porch so you will have to find places to shelter them during cold weather. Tropicals must be moved indoors over the winter. Other perennials will survive if given some protection, such as a thick layer of mulch secured beneath burlap. You can put pots in garages as well, and wrap the root ball in bubble wrap for extra insulation. If wintering will be a problem, choose annuals for your containers.
The Cottage Garden – We look at plants and planting techniques used to establish the cottage style garden we have planted this year in our children's garden. There are many definitions of a cottage garden. They are described as informal or random country-style gardens. And while they do feel a bit haphazard, they also have a warm, welcoming feel.
The cottage garden is lush, colorful, and full of flowers. The plants are placed very close together and in large groups to create thick blocks of color. The close planting also helps keep the weeds at bay. Any number of plants can be used in the cottage garden. We often see many traditional plants like hollyhocks, roses, foxglove, and poppies, but cottage gardens can be as different as the gardener planting them.
When you select plants for a cottage garden, you will want to think tall – give the garden a lot of height in the back, and work in shorter plants as you move toward the edge. We used cosmos and coreopsis along the edge. You can use groundcovers and creeping plants along the edge such as Blue Daze or Evolvulus nuttallianus. This is an annual that produces intense blue flowers all season long.
We have a number of selections, such as the zinnias and cannas to add height. Sunflowers and other wildflowers may seed themselves into your cottage garden and look right at home. One such plant we find in our garden is Snow-on-the-Mountain or Euphorbia marginata. This is a native annual that often grows in prairies and along roadsides. It has attractive, broad variegation and clusters of small white flowers. You will want to be careful when handling this plant. When the plant is wounded it exudes a milky sap that causes inflammations on the skin similar to poison ivy.
You can also include a shrub, vine, or small tree to add a vertical element to the garden and create a focal point or specimen. Cottage gardens typically do not have room for turf – only flowers and a path leading through. Of course, traditional cottage gardens also included vegetables and herbs – in fact, cottage gardens as we know them originated as small family vegetable and herb gardens in England during the Tudor period. The flowers came of their own free will as seeds on the wind and forever transformed the face of the garden. Our cottage garden is all flowers, but you can certainly incorporate herbs and vegetables.
Other common aspects of cottage gardens include fences, arbors, and other structural elements, as well as bird baths or feeders to invite our feathered friends.
Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!
Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host
***********************************************************************************************************
Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3411)
OETA air date: September 15 and 16, 2007
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.
Installing Flagstone – In this segment we demonstrate how to lay flagstone. Flagstone is an ideal material for constructing walkways and patios and makes a beautiful path between flower beds. Flagstone is durable and looks natural in almost any landscape. The word flagstone is a generic term and does not describe any particular type of stone. Flagstone is any large, flat stone from one to four inches thick. Most flagstones are made by splitting sandstone, limestone, granite, quartzite, or slate. These materials offer a range of colors that will compliment any house color. The stones come in a variety of shapes and sizes.
The first thing you want to do is determine the size and shape of your path or patio. For walking paths, a four-foot width will be adequate to allow two people to walk side-by-side. Curved paths and patio edges have a more natural look than straight lines. Garden hose can be used to lay out the shape for a curved edge. Stakes and string will work well for straight lines. Use spray paint or flour to mark the outline of the desired shape.
Once you have the shape outlined remove existing turf or other vegetation from the area to be paved. Dig out the roots and soil to a depth of about four or five inches. The actual depth will depend on the thickness of your flagstone. You want enough room to lay a three inch base beneath the stone, plus the height of the stone itself. The finished height should be ¼ inch above the surrounding ground.
Whether or not to use edging is a matter of taste. Edging will render a more manicured look, and helps keep the stone in place. We are striving for a more natural look and have left out the edging.
We need to create a three-inch base beneath the flagstone. We are using sand. Fine-grained sand like masonry sand works well. If you live in an area that receives a lot of rainfall, you may wish to lay a two inch layer of gravel beneath the sand to help stabilize the surface. Some people like to lay weed fabric between the gravel and sand. This is certainly an option, but will require edging to prevent the edges of the fabric from working their way to the surface.
As you lay your base, be sure to compact each layer as you work. Use a hand tamper or a four-by-four to compact the sand. Water can also be used to help sand settle. Level the sand as much as possible, but maintain a slight crown in the center of paths to allow water to drain away. You will have to make adjustments when the stones are laid, as they will vary in thickness. When you install a flagstone patio you want the surface to slope gently away from the house to prevent water from collecting around the foundation.
Once your base is laid and leveled you are ready to lay the flagstone. There are few rules when it comes to laying stones and it may take you several attempts to get the stones into a good arrangement. It helps to use larger stones along the edge to hold the center stones in, but you also want to obtain a fairly even distribution of small and large stones. You most likely need to cut some of the stones to fill in gaps. A mason's hammer or chisel and hammer work well for this. Lay the larger pieces first and then cut pieces to fit in the extra spaces.
Once the stones are arranged, wiggle them into place and use a rubber mallet or piece of wood to tamp them into place. When all the stone is laid, fill the crevices with sand, sweeping over it several times with a push broom to fill the gaps. Smaller crevices will hold sand longer than larger crevices, so it is a good idea to place the stones close together. You can spray the area gently with water to help the sand settle and then fill again. The sand is going to settle over the first few months, so you will want to repeat the filling process several times.
Laying flagstone is a very rewarding project. Once you have finished you will see what a refreshing change it brings to your landscape.
Turfgrass with Dr. Dennis Martin – Dr. Dennis Martin joins us for a very informative segment on grasses. Dennis is the extension turfgrass specialist in the Department of Horticulture and Landscape Design at OSU. Topics discussed in this segment include:
· Final fertilization of warm-season lawns
· Timing pre-emergent herbicide applications
· Damaged cool-season lawns
· Scouting the lawn and planning for next year
· Selecting cool-season grasses
Here are some notes Dr. Martin prepared for us on these topics.
Final fertilization on warm-season lawns: Warm-season lawns include bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, buffalograss and St. Augustinegrass for those in the southeastern part of the state. Early to mid-September is okay for an end of season fertilization of warm-season lawns. This is not to be confused with the later applications needed for cool-season lawns. Set mid-September as the absolute cut off.
Bermudagrass especially may get dollarspot disease if too deficient on nitrogen in the fall. A ½ to ¾ lb application of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. of area is typically applied on zoysiagrass, buffalograss and even St. Augustinegrass at this time. Bermudagrass can receive up to 1 lb of N at this time per 1,000 sq. ft. Never exceed 1 lb of N per 1,000.
Remember, fertilizer is sold with a number of ingredients, including nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium (N-P-K) as well as other minor elements. This means active nitrogen is only a part of the fertilizer mix. If a 20-0-9 (N-P-K) fertilizer is used, the mixture contains 20% nitrogen. Therefore, 5 lb of raw fertilizer per 1,000 sq ft. will provide 1 lb of N per 1,000 sq. ft. If only ½ lb of N is needed then apply 2.5 lbs of raw fertilizer per 1,000 sq. ft.
Don't over do it…measure and know for sure, otherwise excess nitrogen has draw backs, including more severe spring dead spot on bermudagrass, large patch disease on zoysiagrass, and perhaps reduced winter hardiness. However, N deficiency is known to cause reduced winter hardiness as well!
Sometimes you will see winterize fertilizers for sale at this time of year that have added potassium in addition to nitrogen. Potassium is often credited with additional winter tolerance and other stress tolerance. Without doing a soil test you do not know if potassium is needed. The winterize operates from the stand point that additional soluble potassium helps increase stress tolerance over and above what the normal amount needed for growth. Sometimes this works, sometimes it is a waste.
There is usually no negative environmental effects if potassium is already optimum. In many areas of OK, potassium is already very high in the soil naturally, it depends. Any phosphate (the second number in the 3 number sequence: N-P-K) really should only be added based on soil test as excess amounts can reduce environmental quality through runoff and water effects.
Water the product in with two ¼ inch applications if it does not rain within a few days.
Timing pre-emergent herbicide applications: The last week of August through mid-Sept is the optimum time in most years to apply a pre-emergent herbicide for controlling winter annual broadleaves and grasses. In northern parts of OK apply herbicides during the early part of the window, in southern areas you can apply up to the later window.
Pre-emergent herbicides are those herbicides designed for application prior to weed germinating from seed. These herbicides kill weed seeds at the time of germination. Seeds that remain dormant, are protected and are not killed.
Products containing Surflan or oryzalin, Barricade or prodiamine, Pendulum or pendimethalin, Dimension or dithiopyr sold under various brand names are commonly used pre-emergent herbicides that can be used on most warm and cool season lawns in Oklahoma. Some are sprayable, others are granules. Use only products labeled specifically for your turfgrass species, e.g. tall fescue, Zoysia, bermudagrass.
Apply per label directions. Water the fertilizer in with two separate ¼ inch applications of water (1/2 inch) if rainfall has not occurred within a week. This is called activating the pre-emergent.
It is okay to use combination fertilizer/pre-emergent herbicides for this application on warm-season turf (in the window) as the last application of fertilizer for the season. It is often too early (too hot) to soundly use these combo products on cool-season lawns for this purpose.
Do not apply pre-emergent herbicides to warm season areas that are being overseeded with ryegrass for winter cover. Also, do not apply to areas that will be reseeded or seeded to cool-season grass this fall.
A post-emergent broadleaf or grass control program may still be necessary in late fall or winter to control escaped weeds. October and November brings opportunity to control cool-season broadleaves with post-emergent herbicides. Let summer annual grasses and broadleaves go at this time unless you are going to mow them off to prevent seed set and dispose of the clippings containing large amounts of seed. Crabgrass, prostrate spurge, and knot weed should be treated with a pre-emergent herbicide in spring.
Damaged cool-season lawns: We look at an area that is heavily shaded and experiences excess competition from trees for light, nutrients, and moisture. We see very narrow and spindly leaf blades on tall fescue grown in excessive shade. If we want to continue growing turfgrass in this area, we will need to thin the tree canopy, and pay attention to moisture and nutrient.
In situations of heavy shade, turfgrass may not always be a suitable ground cover. If grass never thrives in a certain area it is time to move on to hardscape elements, shredded bark wood chips, or a variety of shade tolerant ornamental ground covers and under story plantings that are better suited to the site.
The heavy rains in Oklahoma this year had many negative effects on turfgrasses. We see remnants of damage from brown patch and leaf spot disease, both of which were severe this season. We also see evidence of heat and drought stress.
Scouting the lawn and planning for next year: September can be a great time to scout for what worked and did not work in your lawn in 2007. There is still time for cool-season grass renovation this season. Take time to scout your lawn and record areas of need. Do you find areas where cool-season grasses have failed? Has this been a problem for several seasons or just this year? Is the area too shady or prone to drought? Is reseeding needed or tree pruning, etc?
These questions will help you identify areas that need to be renovated and help you to establish a plan for the fall and following summer. Some areas of constant failure are a sign that a change is needed.
Selecting cool-season grasses: Its time to purchase cool-season grass seed that will be used for establishing or over seeding cool-season lawns. Consider using cool-season grasses only in areas where shade does not permit bermudagrass, zoysiagrass or buffalograss to thrive. Warm-season grasses, other than in shade, are better adapted to Oklahoma's harsh climate
Sometimes zoysiagrass can be used in light shade if it is a case where bermuda persists but is thin. However, now is not the time to establish zoysiagrass (May-June is proper).
Because of a variety of diseases and environmental stress consider using a tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass mix. Each species brings a value to the mix but also some weaknesses. There are no perfect cool-season grasses for Oklahoma, thus the mix concept.
How do we know what is in the bag? The branding sometimes tells you, but the legal seed label, usually on the back or bottom tells you what species and varieties are in the bag and their amount. Tall fescue/bluegrass mixes usually have 90 to 95 % tall fescue and 5 to 10 % Kentucky bluegrass. Sometimes perennially ryegrass may also be a part of the mix at a low percentage and this is okay. Note perennial ryegrass and not annual ryegrass.
In general, we suggest avoiding mixes that contain annual ryegrass and/or creeping red or red fescue. Annual ryegrass germinates quickly, steals light, space and nutrients, over competes then fades out in heat, leaving unsightly openings in lawn in summer. The creeping or red fescues only occasionally survive as a perennial in Oklahoma (north east Oklahoma) and they also die in the summer in most areas of the state.
Commercial mixes are available: Examples can include but are not limited to Heartland Supreme mix, Scott's Pure Premium tall fescue and heat tolerant blue mix, and Pennington has a tall fescue bluegrass mix as well. No doubt there are others as well.
Make sure the "sell by date" has not passed or, make sure the seed testing date is not more than 9 months ago. When storing seed, store it under cool, mild condition, like you would keep your pet and not in a hot garage or hot shed. And don't let the seed bag get wet.
For additional information on lawn selection and maintenance see these OSU Extension Factsheets: HLA 6418 – Selecting a Lawn Grass for Oklahoma, HLA 6419 – Establishing a Lawn in Oklahoma, HLA 6420 – Lawn Management in Oklahoma
The Oklahoma Seed Laws & Rules are published at: http://www.oda.state.ok.us/forms/law/okseedlaw.htm#dat
Mud Ball Wildflower Seeding - We visit the Centennial Celebration at the Oklahoma Centennial Botanical Garden Research and Education Center in Tulsa. There we visit with Kim Shannon of the Oklahoma Native Plant Society who demonstrates how to seed wildflowers using mud balls. Of course, we find plenty of kids to help us out!
To make your own mud balls start by mixing soil with plenty of water so that it will stick into clumps and can be rolled into balls. Once the soil is wet, stir in plenty of wildflower seeds. We use blanket flower, Gaillardia pulchella, black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia hirta, and purple cone flower, Echinacea purpurea. You will need to mix the seed in with your hands to get it well mixed. Then, roll the mixture into small balls, about the diameter of a large marble or one inch.
Throw the balls into the area you want seeded and let nature take its course. The balls will break down slowly over the winter and provide the perfect site for seeds to germinate in spring. The soil ball also protects the seeds from hungry birds.
Viewer's Bulletin Board
The Ornamental Plant Materials Conference will be hosted by the OSU Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture, October 9 and 10 at the Best Western of Stillwater, 600 E. McElroy. The conference will feature workshops for gardeners of all skill levels, from industry professionals to home hobbyists. For more information, contact Stephanie Larimer, (405) 744-5404; stephanie.larimer@okstate.edu.
Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!
Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host***********************************************************************************************************
Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3410)
OETA air date: September 8 and 9, 2007
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.
Water and Landscapes – In this episode we take a look at a variety of ways to incorporate water in the landscape. Water has been used to enhance landscapes for centuries, from the Hanging Garden of Babylon built in 600 BC, to Egyptians and Mesopotamian water gardens built as long ago as 3000 BC. We find water used by nearly every culture, from Roman fountains to naturalistic Chinese water gardens. We highlight the use of water in Japanese gardens with a visit to our Japanese tea ceremony garden, designed and constructed in our studio garden by gardeners from our sister city in Kameoka, Japan.
We highlight the importance of water to other creatures in the landscape. Birds, turtles, frogs, newts and snails may make your water garden their home. Water also attracts a number of insects, including dragonflies and damselflies. Interestingly, almost all the insects attracted to water are predators, feeding on other insects and providing a great service to the surrounding landscape. The exception to this is the mosquito, whose larvae can develop in even the smallest pools. You can add goldfish to your water feature (even a small barrel or other container) to eat the larvae and help manage mosquitoes.
Water opens the door to an entirely new assemblage of plants. There are those plants that grow directly in the water, called aquatic plants, such as Water Lilies (Nymphaea alba), Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes), Papyrus (Cyperus papyrus ), Lotus (Nelumbo spp.) and Japanese Iris (Iris ensata). In addition to the aquatic plants themselves, a number of plants will thrive along the pond edge. Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) and Flag Iris (Iris pseudacorus) like to keep their toes wet, while moisture-loving plants such as Canna (Canna spp.), Ligularia (Ligularia spp.) and Primrose (Primula vulgaris) anchor the pond in to the surrounding landscape.
When it comes to designing a water feature, the possibilities are endless. You do not need a large space or a great deal of experience. Water features can be as simple as a container with a single water-loving plant, or as complex as a pond with koi.
Installing a Fountain – Installing a fountain is a relatively simple way to add water to your garden. Kim is joined by studio garden manager Tami Krehbiel as they demonstrate how to install a small stone fountain.
Materials:
· basin or tub
· water pump
· metal grate
· wire screen (optional)
· decorative flagstone and small rocks
· decorative stone fountain (purchased from a garden supply center) (optional)
· plastic tubing
· brick
The fountain will consist of a tub or other large container to hold the water, an electric pump, a decorative stone fountain and decorative stone, and a wire grate to hold everything in place. When purchasing the tub and wire grate, you want them both to be large enough to support the chosen fountain. Think about where the water will flow down from the fountain and be sure it will fall into the tub and not the surrounding soil.
Pumps run on electricity, so you will need to locate the pump in a location that is accessible to an electrical outlet. It is possible to call an electrician to add a new outlet in the landscape, but this can be expensive. Another option is to use a solar powered pump to move your water.
Begin by digging a hole large enough to hold the tub or container you are using as a water reservoir, and deep enough so that the lip of the tub is just above the surrounding soil. You do not want it to be lower than the soil or you will get a lot of dirt falling into your water reservoir. It is important to remember to call OKIE (1-800-522-OKIE) before you dig so that you know where your utilities run underground.
Sink your tub into the hole and place a brick at the bottom. Over time, soil and insects will collect in the bottom of the tub. We will place the pump on top of the brick to help keep this sediment from clogging up the works. The pump will have a plastic tube that must run into the opening at the base of your fountain. But before we can hook this up, we will need to get our grate and fountain in place.
Depending on the size of the openings in your grate and the diameter of the tube you are using, you may need to cut out a hole in the center of the grate to pass the tube through. We are also using a metal screen to support some smaller stones, so we will also need to cut a hole in the screen. The grate should be cut to fit just over the tub, extending beyond the tub edge just enough for support.
Once you have your grate in place, set the fountain over the grate. You will need to get help when hooking up the pump. Tilt the fountain and grate forward so you can access the pump in the tub below. Thread the tubing through the openings in the grate and fountain. Make sure the pump is sitting on the brick in the bottom of the reservoir. Now, reset the grate and fountain.
Our fountain fills with water and then spills gently over the top of the stone. To prevent water from leaking through the opening where we have threaded the tubing, we will seal the opening with silicone.
Once you have everything in place, test the fountain to be sure it is working properly. Fill the tub with water and plug in your pump. If it is functioning properly, you can move on to finishing off the fountain.
Now that the fountain is in place, we will cover the exposed grate with small flagstones, rocks and pebbles. Be creative with the arrangement. You can use just about any material you wish to decorate around your fountain. As a note, it is not necessary to purchase a stone fountain like the one we used. Water can be directed to flow through a variety of materials. It can simply spill over a stack of stones, or through a hole drilled through a tree stump. Be creative with your fountain. Look at garden centers and at your favorite public gardens for ideas.
You will also want to bury your electrical cord to keep it out of view. We buried ours beneath mulch. It is important to remember where your power cord is so that you do not accidentally cut it with a shovel or other tool later. It is a good idea to some how mark its location.
Once the fountain is in place you need only check it regularly to keep the water level up. Water will evaporate from the reservoir, and when the weather is very hot and dry, it will evaporate rather quickly. It is a good idea to fill the reservoir whenever you water nearby vegetation. You will also want to clean out the reservoir about once a year to remove any debris or sediment that has collected in the bottom of the tub.
Birds and Water – Birds will use water from any type of feature you add to the landscape. Water is as important to birds as food; they need it year-round to drink and bathe. Bathing helps the bird to keep its plumage in good condition. In the summer, birds bathe to cool down. Birds will use ponds, fountains, pools and running water, just about any type of water feature you wish to install.
There are ways to make your water feature more accessible to birds. Small birds need an area where they can wade in and out of the water. It is also a good idea to vary the depth of the water to attract many different sized birds. Larger birds will need a pool about three inches deep. You can easily make existing ponds, pools and fountains more bird-friendly. In deeper pools, place rocks of varying size to create a platform for smaller birds to enter and exit safely. Marsh plants along the shore of a pond will also provide an area of shallow water.
If you want to attract birds to the landscape, but are not interested in installing a water feature, you can use a simple bird bath. Some bird baths are more ornamental than practical. Look for a bird bath that has gently sloping sides to allow small birds to enter and exit easily, and a deeper end for larger birds.
Building a Birdbath – We build a simple birdbath out of household materials. Any dish that is at least twelve inches in diameter and two to three inches deep will make an acceptable bird bath. Pie plates and flower pot bases are some possibilities.
We use a flower pot base to make our bird bath. The bottom of the dish is all one level, so we use flagstones placed and stacked in the center to create an island. This will give small birds a place to contact the water. It is a good idea to place the birdbath under trees to provide the birds some cover from predatory birds. If you place the bath near bushes, it will need to be raised off the ground to prevent cats and other animals from creeping up on the birds.
Birdbaths need to be emptied and cleaned regularly. Do not use chemicals. A simple scrubbing will be plenty. A scrub brush or even a toilet bowl brush will be a good tool for cleaning the bath. Cleaning will not only benefit the birds, but will also prevent mosquito larvae from developing in the bath. Check the water level regularly and keep it filled, especially during hot, dry weather.
Aphids – Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that feed by sucking sap from the plant. Thousands of aphid species exist and attack a variety of plants in the landscape from vegetables, to trees, to ornamentals. Aphids are often yellow or green, but some can be black or brown. They have a plump, pear-shaped body and on larger species you may be able to see two structures that look like tail pipes sticking out of the insect's rear, these are called cornicles. Aphids are the only insect that has these cornicles. Aphids have a rather complex lifecycle that includes winged and wingless forms, but you most commonly see the wingless aphids feeding in groups on leaves or along plant stems in the garden.
Aphids excrete a sticky sweet substance called honeydew that can collect on leaves. Sometimes a fungus called sooty mold will grow on the honey dew. The fungus itself is not damaging to the plant, but it is very unsightly on your ornamentals. Some aphids have a mutualistic relationship with ants, which means that both the ant and the aphid benefit from each others presence. The ants protect the aphids and feed on the honeydew the aphids produce.
Aphids reproduce rapidly and their populations can explode nearly over night. Aphids rarely cause enough damage to kill a plant, but they can reduce vegetable or fruit harvests and cause significant aesthetic damage to ornamental plants. There are a number of insect predators that feed on aphids and do a good job of keeping the aphid numbers low. Ladybeetles or ladybugs, lacewings and flower fly larvae are among the aphid's top natural enemies.
When predators fail to keep aphid numbers in check, there are several environmentally friendly tactics that can be employed to control them. You can literally wash the aphids off the plants using a powerful spray of water. You can also spray the aphids with a variety of materials. A solution made by mixing 1½ teaspoons of liquid dish soap with 1 quart of water makes an excellent aphid spray. Put the solution in a spray bottle and simply spray it on plants, making sure to thoroughly cover all surfaces of the plant. Dish soap solutions work on a variety of soft-bodied insects including thrips and white flies.
You can also purchase insecticidal soaps and oils such as neem oil that provide good aphid control. Always read the label before applying soaps and oils to make sure the product is compatible with the plant you are growing. Do not use oils or soaps, including dish soap, on water-stressed plants or when the temperature exceeds 90°F.
It is important to remember that plants can tolerate a considerable number of aphids. Only treat if your plants are heavily populated and displaying symptoms of damage such as leaf curling, yellowing or distortion, stunted shoots or if sooty mold is a problem.
Harvesting Watermelon – We harvest a variety of watermelon called 'Orangeglo'. This is a heirloom variety of watermelon that has a deep-orange flesh instead of the typical red we are accustomed to seeing. Heirloom seeds are open-pollinated varieties that have been handed down for generations. Open pollinated plants grow true to type, which means the seed will produce the same type of plant as the parent from which it came. Open pollinated seeds can be reproduced generation after generation by collecting seeds each fall and replanting in the spring. This is different from hybrid cultivars, which can not be reproduced from seed.
There are many reasons people choose to grow heirloom cultivars. One of the chief motivators is to save the genetic diversity of our crop plants. Many cultivars have been lost and more are threatened to disappear as industrialized agriculture spreads throughout the world. Other people grow heirloom crops for the diversity in flavors and colors they offer.
Determining when to harvest a watermelon can be a bit tricky. You want to harvest the melon when it is fully mature because it will not ripen once it is removed from the vine. Maturity may be associated with a change in color of the rind of the melon, but this is going to vary with the type of watermelon you grow, and so may not be the best indicator. You may also find the portion of the melon that rests on the ground changes from creamy white to yellow, but again, this will vary with cultivar. Some melons develop a dusty coat that gives the skin a dull appearance. You might also find that the rind becomes hard to pierce with your fingernail and the blossom end of the fruit plumps up. One of the more promising indicators of ripeness is that the tendril of the leaf closest to the fruit becomes dry.
Barb Cooks – Barbara Brown, Extension Food Specialist, makes watermelon sundaes.
Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!
Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host
Watermelon Sundaes
2 cups cold watermelon formed into 4 large balls*
1/2 cup low-fat vanilla yogurt
1 cup chilled fresh fruit such as blueberries, chopped strawberries or peaches
2 tablespoons toasted almonds
· Wash melon well in cool, running, drinkable water before cutting. To form watermelon balls cut melon using an ice cream scoop or make several smaller balls using a cookie dough scoop or melon baller.
· For each serving put 1 watermelon ball in a sundae glass or small bowl.
· Stir yogurt until smooth, spoon 2 tablespoons over each watermelon ball.
· Sprinkle each serving with 1/4 cup fresh fruit and 1/2 tablespoon nuts.
Yield: 4 servings
*Melon balls can be made 3 to 4 days ahead, covered tightly, and stored in the refrigerator. | |
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Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3409)
OETA air date: September 1 and 2, 2007
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.
Oklahoma Proven 2007 Selections – We begin this episode by looking at the 2007 Oklahoma Proven selections. Oklahoma Proven is a plant evaluation and promotion program that began in 1999 at Oklahoma State University. The program is designed to help gardeners select plants, trees and shrubs that will grow well in Oklahoma's diverse climate. Plants chosen as Oklahoma Proven winners have demonstrated the ability to perform well with minimal inputs. Plants are nominated for the program by horticulturalists, nurserymen and other growers from across the state. Each spring the executive committee selects four new plants to be the year's Oklahoma Proven winners. In celebration of Oklahoma's centennial anniversary, the 2007 selections are all plants native to Oklahoma.
Gaillardia is a genus of native wildflower that has captivated gardeners with bright red and yellow flowers and an ability to bloom in hot, dry conditions. The native species, Gaillardia pulchella, is Oklahoma's state wildflower and makes an excellent garden plant. Hybrids (Gaillardia x grandiflora) and new cultivars have been introduced that expand the color range and form of Gaillardia including: 'Goblin' (dwarf form), 'Fanfare' (interesting trumpet-shaped flowers around the central disc), 'Arizona Sun' (compact plants with a long period of bloom) and 'Summer's Kiss' (yellow-apricot flowers), among others. Gaillardia is often a perennial but it also reseeds readily creating drifts of color in the garden or meadow. Allow the seed heads to dry on the plant for maximum reseeding and floral display the following summer. Gaillardia performs best in full sun and on well-drained soils. The plant is hardy to zone 4.
The Evening Primrose (Oenothera macrocarpa) cultivar 'Comanche Campfire' was selected as the winning perennial. This species of evening primrose is native to western Oklahoma and 'Comanche Campfire' was selected for its ability to produce beautiful yellow flowers above red petioles and silver foliage. It is touted as a xeriscape perennial since it thrives in well-drained soil and, once established, requires little moisture. As a low-growing, clumping perennial, 'Comanche Campfire' reaches a height of 15 to 18 inches and spreads to 2 feet. Use it in a rock garden or along the edge of a perennial bed. Plants require full sun exposure and well-drained. Plants are hardy to zone 4.
The Southern Waxmyrtle (Myrica cerifera) is a broad-leaved evergreen native to the southeast corner of Oklahoma and along much of the eastern coastal plain. It has been described as the southern cousin of Bayberry and has a similar scent when new leaves emerge in spring. Southern Waxmyrtle can be grown as a large shrub, making an excellent naturalistic screen, or can be pruned to tree form exposing its light-gray bark. It fixes atmospheric nitrogen making it suitable on poor soils and it withstands bog-like conditions. Narrow leaf, compact and dwarf cultivars are available extending the possible uses for this native shrub. Plants perform well in full sun to shade and tolerate a wide range of soil conditions. Southern Waxmyrtle is hardy to zone 7.
A cultivar of Oklahoma's state tree, the Redbud (Cercis canadensis var. texensis) was selected as the 2007 Oklahoma Proven tree. The cultivar, fittingly named 'Oklahoma', was discovered in the Arbuckle Mountains and was selected for the incredible magenta flowers that cover the tree in early spring. When the flowers fade, heart-shaped leaves emerge with a beautiful glossy sheen. 'Oklahoma' Redbud can withstand full sun, though the plant also performs well in shady sites. The trees grow to 15 to 25 feet high, making them perfect for use under utility lines. They tolerate a wide range of conditions, but do best on well-drained soils. 'Oklahoma' is one of the most beautiful native trees and is perfect for small yards needing a splash of color or grouped together where space allows. Trees are hardy to zone 6.
Past Oklahoma Proven Selections – We also take a look at some of our past Oklahoma Proven selections that are planted at the studio gardens.
The 2004 selection, Texas Firebush (Hamelia paten), is a native of Central and South America, where the plant grows as a small tree. In Oklahoma, it is best used as a heat tolerant annual. The lush green foliage can produce a dense mound over three feet high in full sun and color is added by the interesting orange-red flowers and the reddish tinge on the leaf petioles. Firebush thrives in the summer heat and attracts hummingbirds and butterflies to the garden.
Another 2004 winner is the Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii) cultivar 'Pink Preference'. 'Pink Preference' was selected for its bright pink flowers. It is a heat and drought tolerant perennial that starts blooming in the spring, but blooms most in the autumn as other flowers in the garden start to fade. It forms a two to three foot mound and attracts hummingbirds and butterflies to the garden. Pruning to six inches high each spring will help keep Autumn Sage dense and full. Establish plants in full sun and on well-drained soil. Autumn Sage 'Pink Preference' is hardy to USDA Zone 6.
One of last year's Oklahoma Proven selections is the annual Wishbone Flower (Torenia, Summer Wave™ Series). The Summer Wave™ Series is a collection of hybrid Torenia that thrive in the summer heat. The plants form a 6 inch high by 12 inch wide mound that is great for the border, in a pot or mixed with other plants in a larger container. The Summer Wave™ Series is comprised of the following cultivars: 'Amethyst', 'Blue', 'Large Violet' and 'Lavender Blue'. Each produces flowers from spring until fall, and each flower has a wishbone at its center, giving the plant its name. Wishbone Flower grows best in partial shade and in moist, well-drained soil.
The Diabolo®Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius Diabolo®) was selected as the 2006 winning shrub. Diabolo® is a cultivar of ninebark prized for its deep maroon foliage, which contrasts nicely with the clusters of white flowers produced in the spring and is a great companion for gold or chartreuse-leaved plants. This deciduous shrub grows from 6 to 10 inch high and wide but can be rejuvenated by pruning it to the ground in winter. Red fruit extends ninebark's show into the fall and exfoliating bark adds winter interest. Diabolo® is a hardy and durable shrub that can be used as a screen, for massing or at the back of a border. Plant in full sun to part shade; tolerates acidic, alkaline or dry soils. Plant is hardy to zone 2.
The final selection we look at is the Summer Snapdragon (Angelonia angustifolia). Summer Snapdragon is a tropical sub-shrub that can be used as an annual in Oklahoma and will bloom from summer until the first frost. Orchid-like flowers are produced on 2 inch tall spikes and depending on cultivar, flower color ranges from blue to purple, pink or white with bicolor forms also available. Summer Snapdragon may be used as a bedding plant, to add color to a mixed border or in a container. It is drought tolerant and loves full sun and summer heat.
Okra Harvest – We harvest okra from our unique variety called Little Lucy. Okra is a tropical plant and requires considerable heat to produce a successful crop. Okra plants belong to the mallow family which includes hibiscus and hollyhocks and has large, beautiful yellow flowers that resemble those flowers.
Okra is commonly grown from seed started in containers six weeks before the last frost. The plants do not tolerate root disturbance, so it is best to start seeds in individual cells or pots. Plants are transplanted into the garden when soil temperatures reach 75°F. Once the plants are transplanted, okra is easy to care for. You need to water only enough to keep the soil from drying out.
The hybrid cultivar Little Lucy produces maroon, variegated foliage and burgundy pods. It is a dwarf variety of okra that grows 2 to 3 feet tall. Non-dwarfed varieties can reach up to 7 feet tall. Pods begin to form about two months after planting in the garden. The pods can grow very large; Little Lucy can produce pods up to seven inches. It is best to harvest the pods when they are about three inches to keep plants productive. When pods reach their mature size, plants may stop producing. Early and regular harvest will keep your okra plants in production. The smaller pods are also more tender and better for eating.
Some people have a bad reaction to okra plants, developing a burning itch when their skin comes in contact with the okra plant. To avoid this problem, it is a good idea to wear gloves, a long-sleeved shirt and long pants when you will be working in the okra. It also helps to avoid contact with the plant until after the morning dew dries from the foliage.
Barb Cooks – Barbara Brown, Extension Food Specialist, makes a ground beef and okra stew.
Viewer's Bulletin Board
Centennial Celebration at the Oklahoma Centennial Botanical Garden Research and Education Center in Tulsa on Saturday, September 8 from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday, September 9 from noon until 5 p.m.
Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!
Sincerely,
Kim Rebek, Oklahoma Gardening Host
Ground Beef and Okra Stew
1 pound fresh okra
1 pound extra lean ground beef
1 medium onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
4 to 6 fresh tomatoes, chopped or 2 cups diced canned tomatoes, undrained
1-1/2 cups fat free, low sodium beef broth
1 cup water
1/4 cup tomato paste
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon red pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt, optional
1/2 cup sliced green pepper
· Wash okra thoroughly. Remove caps. If okra is small, leave whole. If large, cut crosswise into 1-1/2 inch pieces. Set aside.
· Sauté beef in until lightly browned. Drain if needed. Add onion and garlic. Sauté 2 to 3 minutes longer.
· Stir in tomatoes, broth, water, tomato paste, lemon juice, allspice, black pepper, red pepper, and salt (if using). Bring to a boil. Reduce heat.
· Cover and simmer about 15 minutes. Add okra and green pepper. Simmer 20-30 minutes longer or until okra is tender. Adjust seasoning if needed and serve.
Yield: 4 servings | |
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Nutrition Facts (without salt)
Servings per recipe: 4
Calories 301 Calories from fat 135
% Daily Value
Total Fat 15g 23%
Saturated Fat 6g 29%
Cholesterol 59mg 20%
Sodium 439mg 6%
Carbohydrate 21g 7%
Dietary Fiber 6g 25%
Protein 21g 43%
Vitamin A: 37% Vitamin C: 121% Folacin: 34%
Calcium: 12% Iron: 19% Potassium: 30% |
Modified from original source: http://www.cooks.com/rec
Barbara Brown, Food Specialist
Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service