October 2007
Oklahoma Gardening Shows
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Dates are in descending order.

Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3417)
OETA air date: October 27 and 28, 2007
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 P.M.

Cabling and Bracing of Trees – In this segment David Hillock hosts special guest Mark Bartlow of Ryan Lawn & Tree Service, Overland Park, KS to discuss cabling and bracing of trees. Cabling and bracing materials are installed in trees to provide extra support. When done wisely and properly, they may extend the life of a tree or make it safer. Not all trees need cabling and bracing. The tree in question should be carefully evaluated to determine if the technique is worth the time and money involved to install the material. If the tree's root system is not structurally sound, or if there is excessive decay, removal of the tree or affected limbs may be a preferable choice.

Cables are installed in the upper 2/3 of the tree canopy to provide support to weak or potentially dangerous limbs by connecting two or more limbs together. Bracing provides additional support in such cases as split or decayed crotches, crotches with included bark, or inherently weak-wooded species.

Special equipment and materials are needed to install cables and braces properly. This should be done by a trained or certified tree care professional. Be sure to shop around and select someone who has received training and has experience in installing cables and braces. Don't be afraid to ask for references and even visit sites they have completed.

Cables and braces are not a one time fix. Tree care services should come back every two to three years to check on the cables to assure proper functioning of the cabling system.


Transplanting a Japanese Maple – In this segment we move a Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) from one location in the garden to a new site. Some trees respond better to transplanting than others. So it is good to do a little research before hand. Also, plan well ahead so that you can root prune and have the greatest possible success with your transplant. Root pruning is a technique used to cut the roots and direct new root growth in the area directly beneath the tree canopy. Root pruning should be done in the fall or spring prior to transplanting.

The ideal time to transplant trees and shrubs is while they are dormant in the early spring, after the ground thaws, but before bud break – or in the fall, just after leaf drop. When we move a tree or shrub, we will be leaving behind a substantial portion of the root system. This can cause shock to the plant and even lead to plant death. Planting at the appropriate time of year will help your plant cope with the shock. Root pruning also helps reduce transplant shock.

Before you begin:
· Tie up the branches with twine to prevent damage
· Secure a strip of flagging to the north side of the tree and then place it in the same orientation in its new location.
· Prepare the planting site before digging your plant. Follow steps outlined in OSU Fact Sheet HLA-6414, "Planting Trees and Shrubs"
· Consider the tree size - soil balls can be very heavy, a 15 inch sphere of clay soils can weigh as much as 200 pounds. If you are moving very large plants, it may be best to hire a professional.

Transplanting tips:
· Dig the root ball 12 inches in diameter for every one inch of trunk diameter
· Taper the root ball toward the base - dig under the root ball at a 45 degree angle to sever any roots growing downward.
· Use burlap to secure your root ball.
· Never let the roots dry out. If you will be transporting plants in a vehicle, make sure the root ball is well moistened and cover the top of the plant to protect it from drying winds.
· Set the plant so the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil.
· Remember to set the plant in the same orientation as it had previously sat, that is why we marked the north side of our tree.
· Backfill the soil and water into place.
· Watered regularly, but also be careful not to over water. A deep soaking every 10 to 14 days is usually adequate.
· Mulch around the tree to help retain soil moisture.
· Fertilization is usually not necessary.
· Pruning should be limited to branches that were damaged during transplanting.

References:
· OSU Fact Sheet HLA-6414, "Planting Trees and Shrubs"
· http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/trees/f1147w.htm
· Michigan State University Extension Bulletin E-1947 "Green Tips: Transplanting Landscape Plants": http://web1.msue.msu.edu/msue/iac/greentip/gt1146.pdf

Edible Gourds – In this segment we look at an unusual vegetable, the angled luffa, Luffa acetangula. This is a relative of the luffa used as a bath sponge. The angled luffa is eaten much like a cucumber, raw or in salads, and can also be cooked, such as in stir fries. This plant matures quickly in warm climates and produces the straightest fruits when grown on a trellis.

Barb Cooks – Barbara Brown, Extension Food Specialist, makes tomato soup.

Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu/. Thank you for your continued support!

Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host


Fresh Tomato Soup
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup diced zucchini
1 cup frozen corn kernels
6 cups low-sodium, reduced fat chicken broth
1-1/2 cups small dry pasta shells
4 cups diced fresh tomatoes
1 teaspoon fresh basil, chopped (1/2 teaspoon dried)
1 teaspoon fresh oregano, chopped (1/2 teaspoon dried)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped (1/2 teaspoon dried)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
Directions:
1) Heat olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium high heat. Sauté onion and celery for about 5 minutes or until tender.
2) Add garlic, zucchini and corn; sauté 5 minutes.
3) Add chicken broth and bring to a simmer.
4) Add pasta, tomatoes, basil, oregano, thyme, salt, pepper and sugar. Simmer until pasta is tender, 10 to 12 minutes.
5) When served, top each bowl with 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese. Yield: 6 servings
Nutrition Facts
Servings per recipe: 6
Calories 216Calories from fat 36
% Daily Value
Total Fat 4g6%
Saturated Fat 1g
7%
Cholesterol 4mg1%
Sodium 797mg 33%
Carbohydrate 37g12%
Dietary Fiber 4g
14%
Protein 19g37%
Vitamin A: 18%Vitamin C: 49%Folacin: 14%
Calcium: 11%Iron: 17%Potassium: 18%
Modified from original source: California Tomato Commission accessed at http://www.eatcatomatoes.org 8/17/07
Barbara Brown, Food Specialist
Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service
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Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3416)
OETA air date: October 20 and 21, 2007
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.
Bold FoliageIn this segment we look at plants that are used to add color to the landscape through their brightly colored foliage. Plants included in this segment are:

Purple Heart – Tradescantia pallida 'Purpurea'
Purple Fountain Grass – Pennisetum setaceum 'Purpureum'
Coleus – Coleus 'Alabama Sunset'
Begonia – Begonia sp.
Hyacinth Bean – Lablab purpurea
Sweet Potato Vine – Ipomoea batatas 'Marguerite'
Elephant Ears – Colocasia esculentum
Caladiums – Caladium bicolor
Castor Bean – Ricinus communis
Persian Shield – Strobialanthus dyerianus

We demonstrate how a simple combination of foliage plants can create a dramatic affect by highlighting our bridge garden, where only five species of plant were used.


Silver Plants with Karen Bussolini – Karen Bussolini, garden writer and award-winning photographer, joins us to talk about one of her favorite topics, silver plants. We look at three types of silvers and what adaptations give each type its unique coloration. We also discuss how these adaptations aid plants in harsh environments. We look at ways to combine silver plants in the garden, and discuss special care and cultivation needed by many silver plants to thrive. Finally, we learn why deer often leave silver plants alone.

If you are interested in learning more about silver plants, check out Karen's book, Elegant Silvers: Striking Plants for Every Garden, which she co-wrote with Jo Ann Gardner. Available through Timber Press: http://www.timberpress.com/books/isbn.cfm/9780881927030/elegant_silvers/gardner)


Plants we discussed:
· Downy Silvers
· Lavender – Lanandula angustifolia
· Lamb's Ear – Stachys byzantina (S. lanata)
· Silver Plectranthus – Plectranthus amboinicus
· Artemisia – Artemisia arborescens 'Powis Castle'
· Silver Falls Dichondra (a.k.a. silver pony foot) – Dichondra 'Silver Falls'
· Waxy Silvers
· Agave – Agave spp.
· Hostas – Hosta spp.
· Blue Fescue – Festuca glauca
· Blue Spruce – Picea pungens
· Junipers – Juniperus spp.
· Variegated Silvers for Shade
· Japanese Painted Fern – Athyrium niponicum
· Heuchera; Alum Root – Heuchera sanguinea
· Silvers for Clay Soils
· Rattlesnake Master – Erygium yuccifolium
· Willows, e.g. Dwarf Arctic Willow – Salix purpurea
· Artemisia – Artemisia arborescens 'Powis Castle'
· Deer Resistant
· Santolina – Santolina chamaecyparissus
· Donkey-tail Spurge – Euphorbia myrsinites
· Dalea – Dalea gregii

Silver Falls Dichondra – Dichondra 'Silver Falls'



Barb Cooks – Barbara Brown, Extension Food Specialist, makes vegetable succotash.
Vegetable Succotash

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup diced onion
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cups diced red bell pepper
2 cups diced zucchini
2 cups diced yellow summer squash
3 cups frozen baby lima beans
3 cups frozen or canned corn kernels
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh sage

1. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion; cook until translucent, about 2 minutes.
2. Add garlic, red pepper, zucchini, yellow squash, lima beans, corn, salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.
3. Stir in sage and serve.

Yield: 8 servings

Nutrition Facts
Servings per recipe: 8
Calories 195 Calories from fat 36
% Daily Value
Total Fat 4g 7%
Saturated Fat 1g 3%
Cholesterol 4mg 1%
Sodium 797mg 33%
Carbohydrate 37g 12%
Dietary Fiber 4g 14%
Protein 19g 37%
Vitamin A: 18% Vitamin C: 49% Folacin: 14%
Calcium: 11% Iron: 17% Potassium: 18%

Original source: http://apps.nccd.cdc.gov accessed 8/17/07
Barbara Brown, Food Specialist
Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service 10/07

Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu/. Thank you for your continued support!

Sincerely,
Kim Rebek,Oklahoma Gardening Host


Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3414)
OETA air date: October 6 and 7, 2007
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.


Overwintering Annuals Indoors – Many annual plants can be brought indoors in the fall and kept as houseplants until the following spring. When brought indoors, annuals will continue to flower well into the winter. Following is a list of annuals to try indoors:

Flossflower - Ageratum houstonianum
Waxleaf Begonia - Begonia x semperflorens-cultorum
Amethyst Flower - Browallia speciosa
Pot marigold - Calendula officinalis
Firecracker Plant - Cuphea ignea
Pinks - Dianthus chinensis
Impatiens - Impatiens walleriana
Lobelia - Lobelia erinus
Sweet Alyssum - Lobularia maritima
Flowering tobacco - Nicotiana alata
Geranium - Pelargonium x hortorum
Petunia - Petunia x hybrida
Portulaca - Portulaca grandiflora
Dwarf marigold - Tagetes tenuifolia pumila
Black-eyed Susan Vine - Thunbergia alata
Wishbone flower - Torenia fournieri
Verbena - Verbena x hybrida
Torrenia – Torenia fournieri
Coleus – Solenostemon scutellariodes
In this segment we discuss the proper timing and preparation for bringing annuals indoors. We also talk about and demonstrate several different ways in which annuals can be overwintered including: rooted cuttings, containerized plants, and storing geraniums bare-root. We demonstrate how to take cuttings and discuss care of plants as they are overwintered.

Listed below are links to publications on overwintering plants:
Horticulture Tips for September 2006 - http://www.hortla.okstate.edu/horttips/sept2006.pdf; and Annual Flowers for Indoor Use: http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortnews/1996/11-8-1996/anflower.html.

Building a Cold FrameIn this segment we demonstrate how to build a cold frame. Cold frames are used to protect plants from wind and cold. They rely on the sun to warm soil during the day and this heat is trapped inside the frame by a cover or sash.

Cold frames have several uses. In the spring they can be used to start vegetable and flower seeds before outdoor planting, and can be used to harden-off greenhouse-grown seedlings or those started indoors before transplanting into the garden. The frame can be used to shelter tender perennials or to overwinter woody cuttings that had been rooted during the summer. During the summer you can remove the cover and use the frame as a protected propagation area or simply plant vegetables into it. We will use the cold frame to grow vegetables into the winter months.

We discuss construction materials, location in the landscape, building tips, insulation, and ventilation of the cold frame. We also demonstrate how to erect a miniature hoop house as an alternative to a solid cold frame.

Many of the vegetables that can be grown in a cold frame are leafy greens, including lettuce, spinach, parsley, and kale. Other suitable vegetables include carrots, green onions, chives, and radishes. These are going to be planted just as they would in the garden, but we will not plant seeds in a furrow. We want as much sunlight to reach the seeds and seedlings as possible to hasten development.

Listed below are links on how to build cold frames:

University of Missouri Extension "Building and using hotbeds and coldframes" - http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06965.htm

Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service – "Hotbeds and Cold Frames" - http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/HO-053.pdf

Garden Tips for October – David Hillock, Consumer Horticulturist, gives us garden tips for October.

· Container-grown shade trees and pines are most successfully planted in the fall. Broadleaf evergreens or bare-root plants are best planted in the spring.
· Plant spring flowering bulbs now in well-drained soils with good sunlight. Planting depth is two times bulb diameter. Plant pansies, kale, and cabbage.
· Dig and store tender bulbs and tubers in a cool dry place.
· Clean up marginal water garden plants after first frost kills the tops.
· Place a net over the water garden to prevent leaves from falling in the water.
· Remove diseased plant material from the landscape to reduce disease problems next year.
· In mid-month, fertilize cool season lawns. (HLA-6420)
· Seeding of cool-season grasses for perennial lawns can continue through mid-October. (HLA-6419)
· Remove leaves from cool-season grasses or mow with mulching mower. (HLA-6420)
· October is an excellent time to control broadleaf weeds in well established warm- or cool-season lawns with a postemergent broadleaf weed killer. Don't apply to seedling fescue. (HLA-6421)
· Mow and edge neatly before killing frost.

Composting – We visit with David Hillock, Consumer Horticulturist, about composting.

In Oklahoma, yard trimmings and grass clippings can make up 15 to 25 percent of a community's waste. The costs of col-lecting and transporting yard waste and the subsequent landfill tipping fees may be a considerable portion of a community's waste management budget. These costs may be reduced if communities encouraged and practiced backyard yard waste composting.

Yard wastes, especially grass clippings, are usually high in nutrient content. When yard waste is composted, bacteria use air and water to break down plant materials into nutri-ent-rich compost. These nutrients can be beneficial to soils, plants, and trees in the yard when applied as mulch or a soil amendment.

Compost systems can be simple and slow as a heap or pile, which is turned occasionally during the year. A more structured and complex system requires containers, more turning, and produces finished compost in a few months. In compost piles, water is added to green and brown vegetation layers.

As decomposed plant material, compost is an excellent soil amendment. Compost can loosen clay soils, help sandy soil retain moisture and nutrients, and retain soil moisture when used as a mulch. Beneficial bacteria and organisms in compost assist plants in absorbing nutrients. Thus, natural materials are recycled in a home yard environment.

Organic materials are placed in alternating green and brown layers in a container, bin, or pile. Alternating green and brown layers of material help assure the correct carbon and nitrogen amounts. With water and air, bacteria and insects use the materials as a food and energy source. The bacteria need water to live and grow. This process generates heat from 140 to 160 degrees F. Aeration is done by turning the container or pile of material. The more turning, the more air the bacteria have available, and the faster the process works. When the temperature decreases, the process is complete.

For more information see BAE-1744 Backyard Composting in Oklahoma.

Viewers Bulletin Board

Payne County Audubon Society's Nature Day, Sunday, October 14, 12 - 4:30 p.m., Sanborn Lake, Stillwater, OK. This is a free event. For more information, please contact auntcrynk@hotmail.com or call Crystal 880-7117.

The seminar – "Year in the Life of a Rose" – is being presented by Mark Stelljes (consulting American Rose Society Rosarian and Board Member of the Tulsa Rose Society) on Sunday, October 21, 1 – 5 p.m. Mark's specialty is taking the mystery and difficulty out of growing roses. There will be food and door prizes. RSVP to (918) 455-7673. There is no charge to attend the seminar. The seminar is being held at Mark's business – Roses Inc. Tulsa, 12323 E. 132nd St. S. in Broken Arrow (map: http://www.rosesinctulsa.com).

Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu/. Thank you for your continued support!

Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host