If you have access to the internet, this site provides a good list of fruit growers across the country - http://www.qnet.com/~johnsonj/Fruit.htm

The nurseries listed below are good variety sources and can also be found in the list provided by the above website.

WOMACK NURSERY CO. Rt. 1, Box 80 DeLeon, TX 76444-9649 817-893-6497, FAX 817-893-3400	Nut and fruit trees, esp. pecans, peaches, Goof selection of pruning shears and knives, and budding knives. $25 min. order. 34-page catalog with b/w pics and brief descriptions, free. Quality: Good Service: Good Variety: Fair to Good
SOUTHMEADOW FRUIT GARDENS PO Box 211, 10603 Cleveland Ave. Baroda, MI 49101 616-422-2411, FAX 616-422-1464	Old and new tree fruits, grapes, misc fruits. Free price list, or $9 for guide to antique fruits. Quality: unknown Variety: Good

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Question #6: My wife and I live in Edmond, OK and planted a grape vine this spring. I think it is a red seedless type. The plant seems to be doing quite well and is growing and climbing on our lattice panel but has yet to produce. I know on some plants, they won't the first year but we were wondering if we have to have to or more for fruit production. We never thought about needing more but will plant several more if that is what is needed. Please advise if possible.

Answer: Most grapes do not need another plant for pollination. The exception is Scuppernong and muscadine varieties. As far as it not producing this year, that is OK. In order to get a well established plant that will produce quality fruit, it is recommended that you do not allow the plants to produce fruit for the first 2 or three springs. If fruit is allowed to develop it will reduce the growth and vigor of the vine. If the vine has reached the top wire of the trellis and has been trained into its final form after the second growing season, it may be allowed to set a light crop the following spring. About half of the flower clusters should be removed to make sure the vines are not weakened by the fruit load.

Proper fertilization and pruning is also important to the success of grape production. For additional information on growing grapes in Oklahoma, go to our department homepage at www.hortla.okstate.edu. Select "Lawn & Garden," then "Horticulture Info Fact Sheets," then go to "Fruits & Nuts," and then F-6246 - Growing Grapes in the Home Garden. You may also contact your County Cooperative Extension Office for additional information or to request a copy of the publication if you are unable to access it via the web.
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Question #7: I am a homeowner with an oriental persimmon. I don't know the age of the tree. They have had very little fruit production. Any suggestions?
Answer: I don't know much about persimmon but here is what I have been able to gather. Persimmon are dioecious or male and female trees, thus the male tree will not bare fruit or very little if any. It is also listed as being hardy to zone 7, so perhaps the colder temperatures are causing damage to the flower buds or stems. Persimmon succeed under widely varying soil conditions, but are not tolerant of poorly drained soils. Persimmon respond to an application of nitrogen if the soil is deficient. Best time to apply nitrogen is at dormant or nonfruiting times, such as late winter or early spring. However, excess nitrogen will cause young fruit to drop. Apparently persimmon do not respond to or need fertilizers other than those containing nitrogen. They are not troubled by excess or deficiencies of other elements.

They are remarkably free from disease and pest and do not require a pollinizer to set fruit. Pruning is rarely needed except to keep the plant manageable and to remove dead wood. Fruit are born on current season's growth and usually form on outer part of tree. Fruit thinning is not necessary unless weight of fruit may cause damage to limbs.
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Question #8: I have 2 plum trees, 2 peach trees and an apricot tree. They're 3 years old but they still haven't produced fruit. I've never sprayed, do you think maybe that's why?

Answer: Some trees just need to be older before they will bear good fruit, as much as five years old. Most are self-fruitful but it is usually advised to plant two or more varieties for better pollination. However, our winters and late freezes are often the culprit for poor fruit set around here. Apricots are not recommended in Oklahoma just for that reason. They bloom too early and almost always get nipped by late freezes. Depending on the varieties, peaches and plums can also be damaged. For management and spray recommendations see fact sheets F-7319, F-6228, F-6229, and F-6244.