| February 2008
Oklahoma Gardening Shows
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OETA will run their Festival for the next three weekends so the next new show will be on March 22 and 23, 2008.
Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3434)
OETA air date: February 23 and 24, 2008
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.
Pruning Equipment – When it comes to pruning we have three basic tools: hand pruners, loppers and saws. Hand pruners are for smaller stems, up to about ¾ of an inch. We will be removing larger stems, which will require loppers. Loppers can handle stems up to two inches. For stems larger than that you will need a hand saw.
Both loppers and hand pruners come with two different types of blades, an anvil type blade or a bypass blade. Anvil blades come together as they cut and are best for pruning dry, dead wood. Where the blades come together they do not cut cleanly through living tissue and can cause peeling or tearing. For pruning living stems you want to use the bypass style pruner. The two blades move past one another as they cut, much like a scissors, leaving a clean cut. It is important to select the right tool for the job at hand.
Blueberries – Dr. Eric Stafne, OSU Fruit Crop Extension Specialist, joins us to prune blueberries. Blueberries need to be pruned once they have been established for about five years. When pruning, we want to remove the oldest canes, which produce less fruit. Remove canes from the center of the plant to open the center of the plant, which will allow sunlight to penetrate. Strive for an even ratio of young, middle-aged and old canes. When pruning, cut canes to the just above ground level.
Lack of pruning can lead to declined fruit production. Other ways to boost fruit production include applying a nitrogen fertilizer, maintaining proper soil pH of 4.8 to 5.2 and watering regularly. Plants can use up to 6 to 10 gallons of water per day in hot, dry weather. Supplement rainfall to provide 2 to 3 inches of water per week. Mulch plants with pine needles or pine bark to conserve moisture.
Nitrogen fertilizers should be in the ammonium form rather than the nitrate form. Urea also makes an excellent fertilizer for blueberries, when pH is correct (between 4.8 and 5.2) and if the pH is too low (below 4.8). When pH is too high, apply ammonium sulfate at the labeled rates. Other nutrients are only needed if soil test indicates deficiency.
There are three types of blueberry that can be grown in Oklahoma. Highbush blueberries can be grown in the northern part of the state. Good varieties for Oklahoma include Duke, Collins, Bluecrop, Blueray, Elliot and Toro. The Southern Highbush blueberry is well suited to the central part of the state. Recommended varieties are Legacy, O'Neal, Summit and Ozarkblue. In the south and especially, southeast corner of the state, Rabbiteye blueberries perform well. Try Climax, Premier, Brightwell or Tifblue varieties.
For more information on growing blueberries see OSU Fact Sheet HLA-6248 Blueberry Production for the Home Garden.
Pruning Dogwoods – In this segment we prune a dogwood shrub to enhance winter color. We can apply many of the same pruning principles used on blueberries to other plants, like the Red Osier Dogwood. This is a plant of many names. Scientifically it is called Cornus sericea, though it is also commonly called Cornus stolonifera, which is an older name. Common names include Redtwig Dogwood, American Dogwood and Red Osier Dogwood. Red Osier Dogwood is a native shrub that provides excellent wildlife habitat. It is commonly grown for its showy red winter bark. The younger stems have the greatest color, and as they age, they get very woody and do not change color. To keep your dogwood looking their best for winter color, you need to periodically prune out some of the older stems.
To do this we want to remove about one-third of the stems each year over a three year period. Remove the oldest, darkest, woodiest stems in the first year. These will be thick and have very little color. Cut them to about two inches above the ground using loppers.
Next season, remove another third of the stems, again targeting the oldest ones, and then finish in the third season. You will then want to give the plants a year or two off before resuming pruning, once the color starts to fade again. This type of pruning can be done just about any time of year, but it is easiest when the twigs are free of leaves. Late winter is an ideal time.
Some gardeners prefer to use renewal pruning with dogwoods, which involves cutting all of the stems off to ground level and allowing the plant to regenerate. Dogwoods tolerate renewal pruning well, thanks to their suckering habit, but you will leave a temporary vacant spot in the landscape.
For more information see OSU Factsheet HLA-6409 Pruning Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, and Vines.
Fertilizing Asparagus – Asparagus is a wonderful spring vegetable. To promote a good crop, we need to fertilize the crop twice each season; once in late February or early March and again at the end of the harvest to stimulate the growth of ferns. Promoting vigorous fern growth will replenish the energy reserves in the roots for next year's harvest.
Before we fertilize, remove last year's dead ferns and move those to the compost pile. Apply a side dressing of fertilizer. You will find a set of three bold numbers separated by dashes on the fertilizer bag indicating the amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Generally, you will only need to apply nitrogen, which is the first number in the trio, unless soil test indicate a nutrient deficiency. Phosphorous is often over applied to soils. It is important to have your soils tested every two or three years, and only apply phosphorous and potassium as needed.
The fertilizer is applied at a rate of about 1 to 2 pound actual nitrogen per 100 foot of row. Incorporate the fertilizer into the upper inch of soil. Then spread a thin one layer of compost, about 1 to 2 inches thick to add a little organic matter to the system. This will help hold back weeds, and also help retain soil moisture. Don't forget to make that second fertilizer application as the harvest dwindles.
See OSU Factsheet HLA-6016 Asparagus Culture in the Home Garden for more information.
Planting Seed Potatoes – Mid to late February is a good time to plant many of our cool-season vegetables like carrots, cabbage, peas and potatoes. It is also the time to plant raspberries, strawberries and other perennial fruits. In this segment, Kim demonstrates how to prepare and plant seed potatoes.
Potato plants are started from seed potatoes. These are not seeds in the common sense of the word, but rather small sections of the potato tuber. The tuber is the portion of the potato plant that we eat. Potato plants form tubers to store large amounts of carbohydrates over the winter. In the spring, new shoots develop from wintered tubers. The new shoots develop from the eyes of the potato.
You can purchase seed potatoes from your local garden center, where many different cultivars are available. To prepare the seed pieces, cut the tuber in to quarters, making sure each section has at least two good eyes. You want to plant good sized pieces to ensure a large yield. If tubers are small, you may only cut them into two pieces or leave them whole. After cutting the tubers, leave the seeds in a well ventilated location to cure for at least three days. This will allow the surface to heal and harden, reducing the chance of rotting.
While the seeds cure you can prepare the planting bed. Potatoes need loose, rich soil, which may be a challenge in many areas of Oklahoma. To loosen soil, turn it and incorporate large amounts of organic matter. Once the soil is turned, dig trenches 4 to 5 inches deep the length of the bed. Rows should be spaced 2 to 3 feet apart.
Set the cured potato seeds into the trenches with the cut side facing down and with the eyes directed upward. Space seeds one foot apart. Cover the seeds pieces with enough soil to bury them 5 to 6 inches deep. Sprouts will emerge in two weeks, depending on the soil temperature. If the danger of frost has not yet past when shoots emerge, pull the soil up around the stems for protection or cover the stems with plastic milk jugs or juice bottles with the tops cut off.
For additional information see OSU Factsheet HLA-6028 Potato Production.David's Tips – David Hillock, Consumer Horticulturist, give us tips for February/March.
Flower and Garden
· Divide and replant overcrowded, summer and fall blooming perennials. Mow or cut back old liriope and other ornamental grasses before new growth begins.
Tree and Shrubs
· Prune roses just before growth starts and begin a regular disease spray program as the foliage appears. (HLA-6403 & EPP-7607)
· Anthracnose control on sycamore, maple and oak should begin at bud swell. (EPP-7634)
· Diplodia Pine Tip blight control on pines begins at bud swell. (EPP-7618)
· Chemical and physical control of galls (swellings) on stems of trees should begin now. (EPP-7168 & EPP-7306)
· Dormant oil can still be applied to control mites, galls, overwintering aphids, etc. (EPP-7306)
Turf
· Broadleaf weeds can easily be controlled in cool-season lawns at this time with post-emergent broadleaf herbicides. (HLA-6421)
· Apply preemergent crabgrass control chemicals to cool- and warm-season turfgrasses (HLA-6421). Heed label cautions when using any weed killers near or in the root zone of desirable plantings.
· March is the second best time of the year to seed cool-season turfgrass; however, fall is the best time to plant. (HLA-6419)
· Cool-season lawns such as bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass may be fertilized now with the first application of the season. Usually, four applications of fertilizer are required per year, in March, May, October and November. (HLA-6420)
· Begin mowing cool-season grasses at 1 ½ to 3 ½ inches high. (HLA-6420)
Calendar of Events
The Myriad Botanical Gardens will host its 10th Annual Oklahoma Gardening School on Saturday, March 1 for gardeners of all skill levels. Visit www.myriadgardens.com for more information or call (405) 297-3995.
The Myriad is also celebrating its 20th Anniversary this season with a special exhibit entitled, In Full Bloom: Twenty Tropical Years, opening March 10. Be sure to visit and join in the celebration.
Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!
Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host
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Best of Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3433)
OETA air date: February 16 and 17, 2008
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.
(Rerun of show #3338, orginally aired March 31 and April 1, 2007)
David's Tips for April – David Hillock, Consumer Horticulturist give us tips for April.
· We have seen some winter damage to landscape plants this year, especially on some broadleaf evergreens like boxwood. As deciduous trees and shrubs begin to leaf out you may notice tip die-back. Cut back to live wood and allow new growth to fill in. Remove winter-damaged branches or plants that have not begun to grow by late April.
· Spring is the time for foliar diseases. Cedar apple and hawthorn rust, fire blight, Diplodia tip blight of pine, powdery mildew and leaf spots. Selecting and planting disease resistant varieties should be the first step in controlling diseases. Apply fungicides as preventative spray as buds break or leaves form on susceptible varieties.
· Be alert for insect pests and their predators. If sufficient predators are present, don't use an insecticide. Hand pick if possible. Watch for cut worms and cabbage loopers and dust with Bt.
· Do not cut back foliage of spring flowering bulbs until they yellow.
· Planting of summer annuals and summer bulbs can begin after danger of frost, which is generally around mid-April in most parts of Oklahoma. This is also a good time to plant groundcovers to take advantage of their burst of growth.
· Place soaker hoses in place; inspect and repair drip and in-ground irrigation systems.
· The first application of fertilizer can be applied to warm-season grass this month. Apply one pound N per thousand sq. ft.
· Mowing of warm-season grasses can begin now as well. Cut height for Bermuda and zoysia should be 1 to 1 ½ inches. Mow buffalo at 3 inches.
· Spring dead spot disease in bermudagrass reveals itself this time of year. Do not spray; perform practices to encourage rapid recovery.
· Warm-season grasses can be established from sprigs plugs or sod beginning late April.
Tomatoes with Ray Campbell – Ray Campbell, Past Host of Oklahoma Gardening and current OSUBG/OKG Ambassador, shows us his method on how to enjoy tomatoes from Memorial Day to Christmas.
Start out with an early tomato variety. The variety Ray recommends is 'Early Girl.' Ray tries to plant the tomatoes 2 to 3 weeks before the last killing frost date. Start seeds 6 to 8 weeks before the planting date. Ray started his seeds on January 23 and they were planted on March 21.
Start preparing the planting site approximately 2 weeks before planting the tomatoes. Work up soil with tiller and space off holes 3 to 4 feet apart. Dig each hole 6 to 8 inches wide and 6 to 8 inches deep. Fill hole with good compost or well rotted manure, 1/3 cup lime and 1 tablespoon complete fertilizer like 10/20/10. Mix in well with soil and compost. Mark site with stake so you will know where to plant the tomatoes. Place soaker hose down the row right next to where you will plant the tomatoes and leave end out to connect with water hose. In order to keep the soil warm, put down black plastic and weigh down well with soil on the side.
When planting the tomatoes use a sharp knife or instrument to slit hole in the plastic being careful not to puncture the soaker hose. Take out the tomato plant, break off the bottom two leaves and plant as deep as you can because it will root wherever the stem is covered by the soil. Cover well. Water around plant with a starter solution of fertilizer (1 tablespoon 10/20/10 fertilizer/gallon of water mixed the today before). Place label beside the plant. On the label write down the date the seeds were started, the date the plants were planted and the variety. Place a hole in the label and attached a twist tie.
The best kept secret is to use a garden protector called a "Wall of Water." These are available at nurseries and garden centers. Put around tomato plant and fill up with water. Leave on until all danger of frost has past, then take off and place tomato cage over tomato plant and attach label to cage. Also at that time cover black plastic with straw mulch. The plastic will now help keep the soil cool throughout the summer.
Weed Control | 
Wall of Water Container | 
Tomato inside the Wall of Water |
If you keep your tomato plants healthy you will still have a nice healthy plant well into late summer or early fall. When frost comes, pick the green tomatoes, take them inside, wrap in paper and store in cool place. You will have ripe tomatoes until Thanksgiving or Christmas.
Barbara Cooks – Barbara Brown, Extension Food Specialist, make a cool-season coleslaw.
Viewers Bulletin Board
Central Oklahoma Hemerocallis Society Annual Spring Daylily Sale, Saturday, April 7, 8 a.m. until sold out, Will Rogers Garden Center, 3400 NW 36th St., Oklahoma City. For more information, please call 405-341-6369.
Tulsa Area Iris Society Iris Show, Saturday, April 21, 1 p.m. until 5 p.m. and Sunday, April 22, 11 a.m. until 5 p.m., Tulsa Garden Center, 2435 S. Peoria, Tulsa. For more information, please call 918-832-0616.
Cleveland County Master Gardener Spring Fling, Friday, April 13, 8:30 a.m. – 1 p.m., Cleveland County Fairgrounds, 601 E. Robinson, Norman. Cost is $10.00. For more information, please call 405-321-4774.
Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!
Sincerely,
Steve Owens
Oklahoma Gardening Host
Winter Coleslaw
1/2 small head cabbage, shredded (about 1/2 pound)
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 cup frozen whole kernel corn, thawed
1/2 cup red bell pepper, chopped
1/2 cup green bell pepper, chopped
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1-1/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon salt
1. In a large bowl mix together cabbage, cilantro, corn, red and green peppers.
2. In a canning jar or other container with a tight fitting lid combine extra virgin olive oil, lime juice, cumin and salt. Close lid tightly and shake well. Pour over coleslaw mixture in large bowl. Mix well.
3. Cover coleslaw and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours before serving. Stir occasionally during refrigeration.
Serves 8
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Nutrition Facts
Servings per recipe: 8
Calories 61 Calories from fat 28
% Daily Value
Total Fat 4g 6%
Saturated Fat trace 2%
Cholesterol 0mg 0%
Sodium 73mg 3%
Carbohydrate 7g 2%
Dietary Fiber 2g 6%
Protein 1g 2%
Vitamin A: 14% Vitamin C: 62% Folacin: 6%
Calcium: 2% Iron: 2% Potassium: 4%
Modified from original source: http://www.bettycrocker.com/Recipes
Barbara Brown, Food Specialist
Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service |  |
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Best of Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3432)
OETA air date: February 9 and 10, 2008
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.
(Rerun of show #3410, originally aired September 8 and 9, 2007)
Water and Landscapes – In this episode we take a look at a variety of ways to incorporate water in the landscape. Water has been used to enhance landscapes for centuries, from the Hanging Garden of Babylon built in 600 BC, to Egyptians and Mesopotamian water gardens built as long ago as 3000 BC. We find water used by nearly every culture, from Roman fountains to naturalistic Chinese water gardens. We highlight the use of water in Japanese gardens with a visit to our Japanese tea ceremony garden, designed and constructed in our studio garden by gardeners from our sister city in Kameoka, Japan.
We highlight the importance of water to other creatures in the landscape. Birds, turtles, frogs, newts, and snails may make your water garden their home. Water also attracts a number of insects, including dragonflies and damselflies. Interestingly, almost all the insects attracted to water are predators, feeding on other insects and providing a great service to the surrounding landscape. The exception to this is the mosquito, whose larvae can develop in even the smallest pools. You can add goldfish to your water feature (even a small barrel or other container) to eat the larvae and help manage mosquitoes.
Water opens the door to an entirely new assemblage of plants. There are those plants the grow directly in the water, called aquatic plants, such as Water Lilies (Nymphaea alba), Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes), Papyrus (Cyperus papyrus ), Lotus (Nelumbo spp.), and Japanese Iris (Iris ensata). In addition to the aquatic plants themselves, a number of plants will thrive along the pond edge. Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) and Flag Iris (Iris pseudacorus) like to keep their toes wet, while moisture-loving plants such as Canna (Canna spp.), Ligularia (Ligularia spp.) and Primrose (Primula vulgaris) anchor the pond in to the surrounding landscape.
When it comes to designing a water feature, the possibilities are endless. You do not need a large space or a great deal of experience. Water features can be as simple as a container with a single water-loving plant, or as complex as a pond with koi.
Installing a Fountain – Installing a fountain is a relatively simple way to add water to your garden. Kim is joined by studio garden manager Tami Krehbiel as they demonstrate how to install a small stone fountain.
Materials:
· basin or tub
· water pump
· metal grate
· wire screen (optional)
· decorative flagstone and small rocks
· decorative stone fountain (purchased from a garden supply center) (optional)
· plastic tubing
· brick
The fountain will consist of a tub or other large container to hold the water, an electric pump, a decorative stone fountain and decorative stone, and a wire grate to hold everything in place. When purchasing the tub and wire grate, you want them both to be large enough to support the chosen fountain. Think about where the water will flow down from the fountain and be sure it will fall into the tub and not the surrounding soil.
Pumps run on electricity, so you will need to locate the pump in a location that is accessible to an electrical outlet. It is possible to call an electrician to add a new outlet in the landscape, but this can be expensive. Another option is to use a solar powered pump to move your water.
Begin by digging a hole large enough to hold the tub or container you are using as a water reservoir, and deep enough so that the lip of the tub is just above the surrounding soil. You do not want it to be lower than the soil or you will get a lot of dirt falling into your water reservoir. It is important to remember to call OKIE (1-800-522-OKIE) before you dig so that you know where your utilities run underground.
Sink your tub into the hole and place a brick at the bottom. Over time, soil and insects will collect in the bottom of the tub. We will place the pump on top of the brick to help keep this sediment from clogging up the works. The pump will have a plastic tube that must run into the opening at the base of your fountain. But before we can hook this up, we will need to get our grate and fountain in place.
Depending on the size of the openings in your grate and the diameter of the tube you are using, you may need to cut out a hole in the center f the grate to pass the tube through. We are also using a metal screen to support some smaller stones, so we will also need to cut a hole in the screen. The grate should be cut to fit just over the tub, extending beyond the tub edge just enough for support.
Once you have your grate in place, set the fountain over the grate. You will need to get help when hooking up the pump. Tilt the fountain and grate forward so you can access the pump in the tub below. Thread the tubing through the openings in the grate and fountain. Make sure the pump is sitting on the brick in the bottom of the reservoir. Now, reset the grate and fountain.
Our fountain fills with water and then spills gently over the top of the stone. To prevent water from leaking through the opening where we have threaded the tubing, we will seal the opening with silicone.
Once you have everything in place, test the fountain to be sure it is working properly. Fill the tub with water and plug in your pump. If it is functioning properly, you can move on to finishing off the fountain.
Now that the fountain is in place, we will cover the exposed grate with small flagstones, rocks, and pebbles. Be creative with the arrangement. You can use just about any material you wish to decorate around your fountain. As a note, it is not necessary to purchase a stone fountain like the one we used. Water can be directed to flow through a variety of materials. It can simply spill over a stack of stones, or through a hole drilled through a tree stump. Be creative with your fountain. Look at garden centers and at your favorite public gardens for ideas.
You will also want to bury your electrical cord to keep it out of view. We buried ours beneath mulch. It is important to remember where your power cord is so that you do not accidentally cut it with a shovel or other tool later. It is a good idea to some how mark its location.
Once the fountain is in place you need only check it regularly to keep the water level up. Water will evaporate from the reservoir, and when the weather is very hot and dry, it will evaporate rather quickly. It is a good idea to fill the reservoir whenever you water nearby vegetation. You will also want to clean out the reservoir about once a year to remove any debris or sediment that has collected in the bottom of the tub.
Birds and Water – Birds will use water from any type of feature you add to the landscape. Water is as important to birds as food; they need it year-round to drink and bathe. Bathing helps the bird to keep its plumage in good condition. In the summer, birds bathe to cool down. Birds will use ponds, fountains, pools, and running water, just about any type of water feature you wish to install.
There are ways to make your water feature more accessible to birds. Small birds need an area where they can wade in and out of the water. It is also a good idea to vary the depth of the water to attract many different sized birds. Larger birds will need a pool about three inches deep. You can easily make existing ponds, pools, and fountains more bird-friendly. In deeper pools, place rocks of varying size to create a platform for smaller birds to enter and exit safely. Marsh plants along the shore of a pond will also provide an area of shallow water.
If you want to attract birds to the landscape, but are not interested in installing a water feature, you can use a simple bird bath. Some bird baths are more ornamental than practical. Look for a bird bath that has gently sloping sides to allow small birds to enter and exit easily, and a deeper end for larger birds.
Building a Birdbath – We build a simple birdbath out of household materials. Any dish that is at least twelve inches in diameter and two to three inches deep will make an acceptable bird bath. Pie plates and flower pot bases are some possibilities.
We use a flower pot base to make our bird bath. The bottom of the dish is all one level, so we use flagstones placed and stacked in the center to create an island. This will give small birds a place to contact the water. It is a good idea to place the birdbath under trees to provide the birds some cover from predatory birds. If you place the bath near bushes, it will need to be raised off the ground to prevent cats and other animals from creeping up on the birds.
Birdbaths need to be emptied and cleaned regularly. Do not use chemicals. A simple scrubbing will be plenty. A scrub brush or even a toilet bowl brush will be a good tool for cleaning the bath. Cleaning will not only benefit the birds, but will also prevent mosquito larvae from developing in the bath. Check the water level regularly and keep it filled, especially during hot, dry weather.
Aphids – Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that feed by sucking sap from the plant. Thousands of aphid species exist and attack a variety of plants in the landscape from vegetables, to trees, to ornamentals. Aphids are often yellow or green, but some can be black or brown. They have a plump, pear-shaped body and on larger species you may be able to see two structures that look like tail pipes sticking out of the insect's rear, these are called cornicles. Aphids are the only insect that has these cornicles. Aphids have a rather complex lifecycle that includes winged and wingless forms, but you most commonly see the wingless aphids feeding in groups on leaves or along plant stems in the garden.
Aphids excrete a sticky sweet substance called honeydew that can collect on leaves. Sometimes a fungus called sooty mold will grow on the honey dew. The fungus itself is not damaging to the plant, but it is very unsightly on your ornamentals. Some aphids have a mutualistic relationship with ants, which means that both the ant and the aphid benefit from each others presence. The ants protect the aphids and feed on the honeydew the aphids produce.
Aphids reproduce rapidly and their populations can explode nearly over night. Aphids rarely cause enough damage to kill a plant, but they can reduce vegetable or fruit harvests and cause significant aesthetic damage to ornamental plants. There are a number of insect predators that feed on aphids and do a good job of keeping the aphid numbers low. Ladybeetles or ladybugs, lacewings, and flower fly larvae are among the aphid's top natural enemies.
When predators fail to keep aphid numbers in check, there are several environmentally friendly tactics that can be employed to control them. You can literally wash the aphids off the plants using a powerful spray of water. You can also spray the aphids with a variety of materials. A solution made by mixing 1½ teaspoons of liquid dish soap with one quart of water makes an excellent aphid spray. Put the solution in a spray bottle and simply spray it on plants, making sure to thoroughly cover all surfaces of the plant. Dish soap solutions work on a variety of soft-bodied insects including thrips and white flies.
You can also purchase insecticidal soaps and oils such as neem oil that provide good aphid control. Always read the label before applying soaps and oils to make sure the product is compatible with the plant you are growing. Do not use oils or soaps, including dish soap, on water-stressed plants or when the temperature exceeds 90 F.
It is important to remember that plants can tolerate a considerable number of aphids. Only treat if your plants are heavily populated and displaying symptoms of damage such as leaf curling, yellowing, or distortion; stunted shoots, or if sooty mold is a problem.
Harvesting Watermelon – We harvest a variety of watermelon called 'Orangeglo'. This is an heirloom variety of watermelon that has a deep-orange flesh instead of the typical red we are accustomed to seeing.. Heirloom seeds are open-pollinated varieties that have been handed down for generations. Open pollinated plants grow true to type, which means the seed will produce the same type of plant as the parent from which it came. Open pollinated seeds can be reproduced generation after generation by collecting seeds each fall and replanting in the spring. This is different from hybrid cultivars, which can not be reproduced from seed.
There are many reasons people choose to grow heirloom cultivars. One of the chief motivators is to save the genetic diversity of our crop plants. Many cultivars have been lost and more are threatened to disappear as industrialized agriculture spreads through out the world. Other people grow heirloom crops for the diversity in flavors and colors they offer.
Determining when to harvest a watermelon can be a bit tricky. You want to harvest the melon when it is fully mature because it will not ripen once it is removed from the vine. Maturity may be associated with a change in color of the rind of the melon, but this is going to vary with the type of watermelon you grow, and so may not be the best indicator. You may also find the portion of the melon that rests on the ground changes from creamy white to yellow, but again, this will vary with cultivar. Some melons develop a dusty coat that gives the skin a dull appearance. You might also find that the rind becomes hard to pierce with your fingernail and the blossom end of the fruit plumps up. One of the more promising indicators of ripeness is that the tendril of the leaf closest to the fruit becomes dry.
Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!
Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host********************************************************************************************************************************
Best of Oklahoma Gardening Inormation Sheet (#3431)
OETA air date: February 2 and 3, 2008
OETA airtime: Saturday 11 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.
(Rerun of show #3417, originally aired October 27 and 28, 2007)
Cabling and Bracing of Trees – In this segment David Hillock hosts special guest Mark Bartlow of Ryan Lawn & Tree Service, Overland Park, KS to discuss cabling and bracing of trees. Cabling and bracing materials are installed in trees to provide extra support. When done wisely and properly, they may extend the life of a tree or make it safer. Not all trees need cabling and bracing. The tree in question should be carefully evaluated to determine if the technique is worth the time and money involved to install the material. If the tree's root system is not structurally sound, or if there is excessive decay, removal of the tree or affected limbs may be a preferable choice.
Cables are installed in the upper 2/3 of the tree canopy to provide support to weak or potentially dangerous limbs by connecting two or more limbs together. Bracing provides additional support in such cases as split or decayed crotches, crotches with included bark, or inherently weak-wooded species.
Special equipment and materials are needed to install cables and braces properly. This should be done by a trained or certified tree care professional. Be sure to shop around and select someone who has received training and has experience in installing cables and braces. Don't be afraid to ask for references and even visit sites they have completed.
Cables and braces are not a one time fix. Tree care services should come back every two to three years to check on the cables to assure proper functioning of the cabling system.
Transplanting a Japanese Maple – In this segment we move a Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) from one location in the garden to a new site. Some trees respond better to transplanting than others. So it is good to do a little research before hand. Also, plan well ahead so that you can root prune and have the greatest possible success with your transplant. Root pruning is a technique used to cut the roots and direct new root growth in the area directly beneath the tree canopy. Root pruning should be done in the fall or spring prior to transplanting.
The ideal time to transplant trees and shrubs is while they are dormant in the early spring, after the ground thaws, but before bud break – or in the fall, just after leaf drop. When we move a tree or shrub, we will be leaving behind a substantial portion of the root system. This can cause shock to the plant and even lead to plant death. Planting at the appropriate time of year will help your plant cope with the shock. Root pruning also helps reduce transplant shock.
Before you begin:
· Tie up the branches with twine to prevent damage
· Secure a strip of flagging to the north side of the tree and then place it in the same orientation in its new location.
· Prepare the planting site before digging your plant. Follow steps outlined in OSU Fact Sheet HLA-6414, "Planting Trees and Shrubs."
· Consider the tree size - soil balls can be very heavy, a 15 inch sphere of clay soils can weigh as much as 200 pounds. If you are moving very large plants, it may be best to hire a professional.
Transplanting tips:
· Dig the root ball 12 inches in diameter for every 1 inch of trunk diameter
· Taper the root ball toward the base - dig under the root ball at a 45 degree angle to sever any roots growing downward.
· Use burlap to secure your root ball.
· Never let the roots dry out. If you will be transporting plants in a vehicle, make sure the root ball is well moistened and cover the top of the plant to protect it from drying winds.
· Set the plant so the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil.
· Remember to set the plant in the same orientation as it had previously sat, that is why we marked the north side of our tree.
· Backfill the soil and water into place.
· Watered regularly, but also be careful not to over water. A deep soaking every 10 to 14 days is usually adequate.
· Mulch around the tree to help retain soil moisture.
· Fertilization is usually not necessary.
· Pruning should be limited to branches that were damaged during transplanting.
References:
· OSU Fact Sheet HLA-6414, "Planting Trees and Shrubs"
· http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/plantsci/trees/f1147w.htm
· Michigan State University Extension Bulletin E-1947 "Green Tips: Transplanting Landscape Plants": http://web1.msue.msu.edu/msue/iac/greentip/gt1146.pdf
Edible Gourds – In this segment we look at an unusual vegetable, the Angled Luffa (Luffa acetangula). This is a relative of the luffa used as a bath sponge. The Angled Luffa is eaten much like a cucumber, raw or in salads, and can also be cooked, such as in stir fries. This plant matures quickly in warm climates and produces the straightest fruits when grown on a trellis.
Barb Cooks – Barbara Brown, Extension Food Specialist, makes tomato soup.
Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu/. Thank you for your continued support!
Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host
Fresh Tomato Soup
2 teaspoons olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely sliced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup diced zucchini
1 cup frozen corn kernels
6 cups low-sodium, reduced fat chicken broth
1-1/2 cups small dry pasta shells
4 cups diced fresh tomatoes
1 teaspoon fresh basil, chopped (1/2 teaspoon dried)
1 teaspoon fresh oregano, chopped (1/2 teaspoon dried)
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped (1/2 teaspoon dried)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1. Heat olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium high heat. Sauté onion and celery for about 5 minutes or until tender.
2. Add garlic, zucchini and corn; sauté 5 minutes.
3. Add chicken broth and bring to a simmer.
4. Add pasta, tomatoes, basil, oregano, thyme, salt, pepper and sugar. Simmer until pasta is tender, 10 to 12 minutes.
5. When served, top each bowl with 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese.
Yield: 6 servings