April 2008
Oklahoma Gardening Shows
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Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3443)
OETA air date: April 26 and 27, 2008
OETA airtime: Saturday 11:00 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.


Designers Showcase – In this segment Oklahoma Gardening visits the Oklahoma City Orchestra League and the Oklahoma City Philharmonic "Symphony Show House." This year, the Bricktown Association has joined the effort to bring us "Downtown at the Brownstones." Designers are challenged with beautifying the terraces and balconies of these new brownstone condominiums located in downtown Oklahoma City. We meet with Ryan Johnson and Cindy Curley of Norwalk Furniture, Christie Morrow an independent designer, Jann Akin of Akin's Plant Services, and Victor Goetz of Calvert's Plant Interiors to see how each designer took on the challenge. Plants used on the balconies are Variegated Ginger (Alpinia zerumbet 'Variegata'), Agave (Agavacea), Liriope Majestic Giant (Liriope Spicata), Bromeliad Mugelia (Crypthanthos hybrid), Date Palm (Phoenix roebelinii), Mandevilla (Mandevilla x amabilis), Croton (Codiaeum variegatum), Geranium (Pelargonium), Sago Palm (Cycus revoluta), Cordyline (Cordyline fruticosa), Blue Fescue (Festuca glauca), and Fiber Optic Grass (Isolepsis cernola). The symphony Show House is open to the public from April 27 through May 11. All proceeds from this fundraiser benefit a variety of music programs throughout the city. For more information, contact the Orchestra League at 405-848-6787 or http://www.okcphilharmonic.org/show-house.

Container Planting Tips – In this segment Kim shares techniques for planting in containers. The success of a container is rooted, quite literally, in a healthy soil. And perhaps the most important thing to consider with soil is not the composition itself, which is certainly important, but drainage. Good drainage is absolutely necessary to growing healthy plants in containers. The first step in providing this drainage is in the container itself. Containers need drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to flow out of the pot. If water is trapped and allowed to stand inside the pot, the roots can suffocate and disease is likely.

Inside the pot, we can further help improve drainage by placing a variety of materials in the bottom of the container. Gravel is commonly used, as are broken pieces of clay pots and small plastic nursery pots. Sometimes, we use large containers for their visual impact, but do not require such a large soil volume for the plants we put in the container. One thing you can do is fill the bottom third of the planter with empty milk jugs or other materials to act as spacers. You will use less soil, which will save money, and the planter will be much lighter and easier to move. A number of products are available for purchase at garden supply stores that can be used to improve drainage and reduce soil volume. These include Better Than Rocks® and Ups-a-Daisy® planter inserts, among others. Another thing you can do to help with drainage is to elevate containers by placing them on a brick or block.

Now that we have taken care of drainage, let's add our soil. You will find an endless variety of soil mixes at the garden center, so what do you use? We want to consider drainage, but we also do not want our soil to dry out quickly. Compost makes an excellent media for containers – it is loose, rich, and has high organic matter content good for water retention. You can also purchase pre-mixed potting soil, or mix your own with equal parts of sand, a loamy garden soil, and peat moss or perlite. Do not use soil from the garden, it tends to be too heavy for containers and does not drain well. You may also want to add a slow release fertilizer to the container. Mix this in with the upper layers of the soil.

As for plant material, you can grow just about any type of plant in a container, from annual flowers, to fruits and vegetables, to small trees and shrubs. Mix it up a little, experiment with a variety of combinations. Be sure to consider the conditions in the location you will place the container – is it sunny or shaded? Is there a lot of wind? Such factors can influence plant selection.

When selecting plants, consider color combinations, plant textures and form. A good way to plant containers is to fill them on three layers: fill the vertical space above the planter with upright plants, the surface layer of the container can be filled with low growing herbs, and fill the lower portion of the container with weeping or cascading plants. Sometimes, one plant can fill the bottom two layers, and another the vertical space.

Once you have your container in place, don't forget to water. Because our container has such good drainage, it will be very difficult to over-water it – but the plants will certainly suffer it they do not receive enough water. Water needs will increase as plants get larger and as the temperature rises.

Types of Containers
Choosing the container to use for your potted garden is as important as selecting the plant material. Almost anything can make a good plant container: barrels, hanging baskets, ceramic pots, window boxes, urns, old bath tubs, or an old work boot…the possibilities are limited only by imagination – and drainage. As you look for items to hold your plants, keep these guidelines in mind:
· Avoid narrow openings – this will make it difficult to pot plants, limits water evaporation from the soil, which can cause fungal problems, and makes clean-up the pits.
· Look for drainage holes (or make your own). Holes should be about ˝ inch in diameter. You want to ensure water will not sit in the bottom of your container.
· Size matters – small pots limit the size of the roots, but may be acceptable for small plants with shallow root systems, they also dry out quickly. Root crops, such as carrots, need deep pots. Very large pots can get heavy in a hurry.
· Light colored containers will not get as hot as dark colors, which can help keep roots cool in the heat of the summer.

One final consideration when selecting containers is winter freeze and thaw. Clay pots, especially unglazed containers, tend to crack in freezing weather. If you plan on leaving a container in place in the garden during the winter, be sure to select a material that can withstand the elements.

Barb Cooks – Barbara Brown, Extension Food Specialist, makes Mexican rice.

Mexican Rice

· Nonstick cooking spray
· 1 cup parboiled brown rice (cooks in 25 minutes)
· 1 medium yellow onion, chopped
· 1 clove garlic, minced
· 2 cups fat-free, low sodium chicken broth, heated
· 1 cup (8 ounces) no salt added tomato sauce
· 3 ˝ cups frozen mixed vegetables, partially thawed
· 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Lightly spray a large saucepan with nonstick cooking spray. Add rice to pan and cook over medium heat until rice is lightly browned, stirring occasionally.
2. Stir in onion and garlic and cook 2 minutes.
3. Add hot broth and tomato sauce. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer 20 minutes.
4. Add frozen vegetables, cover, simmer another 10 minutes or until all moisture is absorbed and vegetables are heated through.
5. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve.

Serves 6.


Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!

Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host
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Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3442)
OETA air date: April 19 and 20, 2008
OETA airtime: Saturday 11:00 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.


Introducing the Design Series – This season Kim will present a series of segments on garden and landscape design that will introduce the basic concepts and steps followed in the process of designing small beds to complete landscapes. As part of this series Kim will use a variety of design demonstration beds recently installed in the studio gardens. Each design bed has a very distinct style and demonstrates a number of design elements. Kim will also visit public and private gardens throughout the state, keeping an eye on design. So if you have been planning to renovate your landscape, or are just looking to add a new bed or planting, be sure to watch for the design segments throughout the season.

Conducting a Landscape SurveyIn this segment Studio Garden Manager Tami Krehbiel joins Kim to conduct a landscape survey, the first step in garden design. The purpose of a landscape survey is to take inventory of the existing features and conditions in the landscape. During the survey, existing plants, structures and paths are recorded and mapped, and the environmental conditions of the landscape are identified. Through the landscape survey, we also identify the positive and negative aspects of the landscape, in its current state, and look for areas that need improvement. The landscape survey is used throughout the design process, from initial planning to plant selection and placement.

The first step is to draw your landscape to scale as best you can. Graph paper, a pencil and a clip board are handy for this job. Follow these guidelines when mapping the landscape:
· Draw the house with the general floor plan, including the locations of doorways and windows.
· Mark locations of existing walkways, drives, utilities, patios, sheds, fences, etc.
· Call OKIE and have utilities marked, add these to the drawing.

Walk through the landscape and record existing landscape features. It is often easiest to take notes on a separate piece of paper or in a notebook. Use numbers on the map and in your notes to keep organized. As you walk, take note of the paths that people tend to follow. These may either be established or paved walkways, or tracks through the grass. You can easily identify heavily traveled areas by thinned and eroded turf. Consider each of the following as you conduct your survey:
· Positive and negative aspects of existing landscape
· Good trees, shrubs to keep, etc.
· Poor, weak or dead plants to remove
· Identify good views to enhance or frame
· Identify views to hide, such as fences, utilities, etc.
· Consider areas where privacy is needed

As you look at the good and bad views in the landscape, be sure to look from all angles. Step outside your property line and look at the landscape from your neighbor's perspective and from the street. When identifying good and bad views you also want to look beyond your property line. And consider the view from windows in your home. Where do you like to sit and look out into the landscape? How is the view from these windows? As you consider views you may identify areas where more plantings and interest are needed.

Part of the survey includes taking notes on the environmental conditions and geography of your landscape. Record the following environmental and site characteristics:
· Sun – note areas in the landscape receiving full sun (6+ hours), part sun (4-6 hours/day) and shade (less than 4 hours direct sun/day).
· Wind exposure – note if an area is well sheltered or exposed to strong winds, drying winter winds, etc.
· Temperature – identify hot spots, such as near air conditioning units and along south facing walls.
· Soil moisture regimes
o Dry Spots: common under over hangs and near air conditioners
o Moist areas: low spots and the area near drain spouts
· Soil type(s) affect drainage, soil nutrition and ultimately the types of plants you can grow in an area. The following describes common soil textures.
o Sandy soils have a course texture and feel gritty
o Clay soils have a fine texture and feel smooth
o Silt soils are more powdery feeling
o Most soils have a mixture of two or more particles along with organic matter
· Soil nutrition and pH - conduct soil tests throughout the landscape

The environmental conditions will vary as you move across the landscape. Be sure to keep careful notes and record the conditions of different areas on your map. Also consider the geography, which takes a much broader look at the landscape. Is the area hilly or flat? Is there a steep slope? Is there a stream, pond or other body of water? Is the property rocky? You want the design to fit with in the geography of your landscape. A formal landscape, for example, does not fit easily into a rocky, woody area.

Finally, identify areas needing alteration. Spring is a good time to identify problems with water drainage. Take inventory of water movement after a heavy rain. Also identify areas with steep slopes, where erosion may be a problem. It is a good idea to survey the landscape at different times of the day and throughout the year, as an area may appear very different at different times.

How to Collect Soil for Testing – In this segment Kim demonstrates how to collect a soil sample. Soil tests should be included as part of the landscape survey and on a regular basis every 2-3 years to manage fertilization. As we design plantings, it is much easier to work with the existing soil conditions than to try to alter these. If you have an area with highly acidic soils, for example, it would be easiest to select plants that perform well in acid soils, rather than trying to alter the pH.

We want to test different use areas separately, because the vegetable garden and the lawn have different nutrition needs and pH requirements. You will also want to sample areas with drastically different soil conditions separately.

To get started you will need a tool for collecting small samples. A soil probe is a great tool for sampling, if you have one. You can also use a shovel or even a small bulb planter. You will also need a bucket for sampling. We want to obtain a representative sample for each area being tested. To do this, we need to collect a number of samples from across the entire area being sampled and combine them into a single, representative sample. Collect samples to a depth of six inches. Take as many as 15 to 20 individual cores randomly across the area and mix them in a bucket. Make sure to use a clean bucket that does not have any cleansers in it. Many cleansers contain chemicals that could alter your soil test results. Mix the individual samples together, then fill the sample bag for analysis.

Sample bags are available at your county extension office, where soil samples may also be submitted. The samples are sent to the OSU Soil, Water, and Forage Analytical Laboratory for testing. Tests cost $10 each, and evaluate soil pH, nitrate nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium contents. Test results include fertilizer recommendations specific to the type of vegetation growing on the site. Be sure to mark the proper space on the sample label indicating the type of area sampled, such as turf or garden. It is important that you do not put the soil in a plastic bag, but place it directly in the sample bag. Soil samples are dried in an oven, where plastic bags could melt.

Hiring Landscape Architects/Designers and Contractors - Garden design is not for everyone, and luckily there are plenty of professionals that we can turn to for help. It is important to know that you can work with a professional to complete all of the design work, or just a part of the project. You may enjoy design work, but find a particular area in the landscape troubling. It is perfectly acceptable to work with a designer just on the area that is troubling you.

Different companies offer different services. Landscape architects or designers create landscape plans, including plant materials and the structures that will make up a landscape. Landscape contractors work more on the installation end, putting a design into place. Some companies offer both services: design and installation, while others also provide maintenance service. There are advantages and disadvantages to working with landscape architects, contractors or companies that provide comprehensive services. You will get a good feel for these as you interview different businesses.

The landscape is an important space in which you will live and needs to be given careful attention and consideration. Take the time to find a professional that you feel comfortable working with. When you work with a designer, you are giving him/her the challenge of bringing your vision to life. The interview process will help you find a designer or contractor who listens to your ideas and shares your vision. A good designer will listen to your ideas and use these to create a space that meets your needs.

Ask as many questions as possible to find out what you are getting for your money. Ask about the process followed in drawing up designs, how many hours does the designer typically spend on such as design, what are their individual specialties of preferred garden styles. You will quickly be able to get a feel for the quality of work you will receive from each person you interview.

When selecting a firm, review photographs and design drawings of past projects, and ask for references. A reputable designer will be happy to provide references. Ask to visit some of the designer's completed projects to see the finished work. It is difficult to judge the quality of a designer without seeing finished products. Some designers are members of professional organizations, such as the Association of Professional Landscape Designers (APLD) and American Society of Landscape Architects (ASLA). Membership in professional organizations often indicates a dedicated effort on the designer's part to high standards and continuing education. One other point to consider if you hire a firm to install your landscape is to make sure they are properly insured.

Barb Cooks – Barbara Brown, Extension Food Specialist, makes a delicious recipe for Oklahoma Gardening viewers.

Corn and Black Bean Soup

· 1-1/2 cups canned or frozen corn, drained if canned
· 2 cups canned black beans, drained and rinsed
· 2 cups no salt added canned stewed tomatoes, undrained
· 2 cups no salt added canned diced tomatoes, undrained
· 4 green onions, sliced
· 1 small or 1/2 large green pepper, sliced
· 4 ribs celery, diced
· 3 tablespoons chili powder
· 1 teaspoon ground cumin
· 1 clove garlic, chopped

1. Combine all ingredients in a slow cooker.
2. Cover and cook on HIGH 5 to 6 hours or on LOW 8 to 9 hours.

Serves 8.

Event Calendar

The Rogers County Master Gardeners will hold their 3rd Annual Spring Event & Plant Sale on Saturday, April 26 from 8 a.m. until 1 p.m. at the Rogers County Building, 416 S. Brady in Claremore. In addition to the sale of plants grown by local Master Gardeners, there will be garden items for sale and two 45 minute feature presentations; as well as educational demonstrations, free soil Ph tests, a Children's Gardening Station, and much more.

Residents in Payne County, the Stillwater Farmer's Market is open for business. Selling local produce, meat, eggs, flowers, breads and more – the market is open through October 29 on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 8 a.m. until 1 p.m. The market is located at 309 N. Main in Strickland Park.

To locate a farmers market near you, check the Oklahoma Food Coop's online directory at http://oklahomafood.coop/farmmarkets.php.

Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!

Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host

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Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3441)
OETA air date: April 12 and 13, 2008
OETA airtime: Saturday 11:00 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.


This week on Oklahoma Gardening we visit TLC Florist and Greenhouses in Oklahoma City to take a peak at new plants for the 2008 season.

Annuals and Herbs – April Enos joins us to present new annuals and herbs for the garden.

Mexican Flame Vine – Senecio confuses
Black-eyed Susan Vine 'African Sunset' – Thumbergia alata
Angelonia Carita™ Cascade 'Deep Purple' – Angelonia angustifolia
Plectranthus 'Blue Yonder' – Plectranthus
'Blanket Double White' Petunia – Petunia hybrid
Russelia 'Night Lights™ Ruby' – Ruselia hybrid
Sanchezia 'Tahitian Breeze' - Sanchezia speciosa
Gerbera Daisy 'Giant Spinnery' – Gerbera species
Calibrachoa 'Million Bells Callie Coral' – Calibrachoa hybrid
'Madrid Blue' Lavender – Lavandula stoechas
'Golden Delicious' Pineapple Sage – Salvia elegans
'Elizabeth' Thyme – Thymus hybrid
'Hi-Ho Silver' Thyme – Thymus hybrid
Red Shrimp Plant – Justicia brandegeana
Verbena 'Lanai Purple Mosaic' – Verbena hybrid
Coleus cultivars 'Carnival', 'Texas-2-Step', 'Anna' – Coleus species
'Polar™ Red' English Daisy – Bellis perennis
Sweet Potato Vine 'Sweet Caroline Red' – Ipomea batatas
Philodendron 'Pink Princess' – Philodendron erubescens
Impatiens 'Fanfare Orchid' – Impatiens wallerana
Kangaroo Paw 'Kanga' – Anigozanthus flavidus
'Gypsy' Yarrow – Achilea ptarmica

Perennials and ShrubsCindy Townsend brings us the best in new perennials and shrubs for 2008.

Hosta 'June Fever' – Hosta sp.
Hosta 'Blue Mouse Ears' – Hosta sp.
Heuchera varieties: 'Rave On', 'Midnight Rose', 'Marmalade', 'Georgia Peach', 'Tiramisu', 'Alabama Sunrise', 'Southern Confort', 'Mahogany' – Heuchera sp.
Asian Jasmine 'Ougon-Nishiki'– Trachelospermum asiaticum
'Dwarf Pagoda' Blue Holly – Ilex crenata
Hellebores 'Ballerina Mix' – Helleborus species
'Toffee Chip' Ajuga – Ajuga reptans
Geranium 'Rozanne' – Geranium hybrid
Coneflower 'Double Pink Delight' – Echinacea purpurea
Stachys 'Pow Wow' – Stachys coccinea
Lamb's Ear 'Silver Carpet' – Stachys byzantina
Phlox 'Natural Feelings' – Phlox paniculata
Coreopsis 'Gold Nugget', 'Moonlight', 'Jethro Tull'- Coreopsis sp.
Corydalis 'Canary Feathers' – Corydalis hybrid
'Heartthrob' Violet – Viola sp.
'Carefree Celebration' Rose – Rosa hybrid
Yarrow cultivars 'Pink Grapefruit', 'Apricot Delight', 'Grapefruit' – Achillea millefolium
Gold-leaf Tansy 'Isla Gold' – Tanacetum vulgare
Arkwright's Campion 'Vesuvius' - Lychnis x arkwrightii
Rudbeckia 'Henry Eilers' – Rudbeckia subtomentosa
'Big Sky™ Sundown' Coneflower – Echinacea purpurea x paradoxa
Penstamon 'Dark Towers' – Penstamon hybrid
'Dry Ice' Juniper – Juniperus horizontalis

Calendar of Events

The Rogers County Master Gardeners will be holding their 3rd Annual Spring Event & Plant Sale on Saturday, April 26 from 8:00 a.m. until 1:00 p.m. at the Rogers County Building, 416 S. Brady in Claremore. In addition to the sale of plants grown by local Master Gardeners, there will be garden items for sale and two 45 minute feature presentations; as well as educational demonstrations, free soil Ph tests, a Children's Gardening Station, and much more. Presentations and events are free and open to the public.

If you live in the Stillwater area, stop by the OSU Horticulture Club Plant Sale on Saturday, April 19 from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. Select from a variety of plant material available in various sizes. You can find a list of plants for sale at http://home.okstate.edu/Okstate/dasnr/hort/hortlahome.nsf/toc/plantsale or call (405) 744-5414 for more information.

Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!

Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host
*************************************************************************************************************

Oklahoma Gardening Information Sheet (#3440)
OETA air date: April 5 and 6, 2008
OETA airtime: Saturday 11:00 a.m., Sunday 3:30 p.m.


History of Lendonwood – In this week's episode Kim and company visit Lendonwood Gardens in Grove, Oklahoma. Leonard Miller, founder of Lendonwood, tells us about the garden's history. Lendonwood Gardens is a three-acre botanical garden near Grand Lake in northeastern Oklahoma. Grassy pathways meander through more than 1,400 different types of plants, including the largest collection of rhododendrons in the Southwest, 500 varieties of daylilies and 25 varieties of dogwoods. The garden also houses large collections of Japanese maples, magnolias and tree peonies. For information on visiting Lendonwood, visit www.lendonwood.org/.

Elements of Japanese Design – Lendonwood is designed with a rich Asian influence, mainly that of Japanese Gardens. Miller describes many of the features and elements typically included in Japanese Gardens. Water is a key feature, whether a pond, fountain or symbolic representation of water through the use of gravel beds. Mountains and islands are also represented in Japanese Gardens through the use of boulders and berms. Stone statuary such as pagodas and lanterns are also very common. One type of Japanese Garden that uses no plant material is a Zen garden. Zen gardens are composed of a gravel bed with several large boulders representing the mountains erupting from the earth. Zen gardens are typically a place of contemplation and meditation.

In addition to strong architectural elements, Japanese Gardens make use of evergreen plants to provide the structure of the garden. Two striking specimens at Lendonwood that we visit in this segment are the Deodar Cedar (Cedrus deodara 'Silver Mist') and the Japanese False Cypress (Chamaecyparis pisiferia filifera 'Lemon Thread').

Japanese Maples – In this segment Kim and Leonard take a look at a variety of Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum). Widely used in Japanese gardens, a great many cultivars are available with diverse size and form. Japanese Maples are particularly striking in the spring when new foliage emerges, tinged with a variety of brilliant colors. The first cultivar we look at is called 'Bonfire', a Maroon Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) with orange and red coloration. The Red Twinged Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum 'Kiyohime') has a compact, mushroom-shape and small stature. A number of Japanese Maples have a weeping habit, such as the Weeping Laceleaf Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum dissectum 'Orangeola'). Finally, many Japanese maples have an upright form, including the Red Flame Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum 'Otome Zakura').

Tree Peonies – Tree peonies (Paeonia suffruiticosa and other species) differ from their herbaceous counterparts by having a woody stem. Peonies have beautiful foliage, with compound, deeply lobed leaves and produce large, often fragrant flowers. Plants flower in late spring and early summer, ranging in reds, pinks and even yellow or white. Tree peonies grow best in partial shade conditions. They tend to sucker from the roots. It is important to remove these suckers to help plants thrive.

Rhododendrons for Oklahoma – In this segment we look at a variety of rhododendrons that perform well in Oklahoma. Extreme summer heat can be a problem for many rhododendrons, though two species, Rhododendron yakusimanum and Rhododendron hyperythrum perform well. To give these plants a boost, place rhododendrons on the north or northeast side of the house to protect them from afternoon sun and drying, southwesterly winds. Rhododendrons do best in partial to deep shade. They require acidic soil (pH 4.5 to 5.5) and good drainage.

Several varieties have been selected for their superior performance in Oklahoma. These include the cultivars 'Cowboys', 'City Park', 'Michelle Smith' and 'Breezy'. These cultivars are heat tolerant, an important feature in Oklahoma.

Planting Rhododendrons – In this final segment, former host Steve Owens joins Leonard at Lendonwood Gardens to demonstrate the proper way to plant a rhododendron.

Announcements:
American Rhododendron Society Convention and Plant Sale: The Ozark chapter of the American Rhododendron Society is hosting the Annual Rhododendron Convention in Tulsa, April 16-20 at the Double Tree Warren Place, Tulsa, OK. Public attendance is welcome. The event will feature a Plant Sale, Saturday, April 19 with heat tolerant rhododendrons, unique maples and more! For more information, contact Leonard Miller at 918-791-1733 or visit www.rhododendron.org.

SpringFest Garden Market and Festival: Tulsa Garden Center will host the annual "SpringFest Garden Market and Festival" on April 11 and 12 from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. at the Tulsa Garden Center, 2435 S. Peoria. The event will include plants for sale, gardening information, garden art, food and fun for the family. For more information, call 746-5125 or visit the website at http://www.tulsagardencenter.com.

Please contact your local Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service Office for more educational information on garden-related topics. If you need further information about this week's show, call (405) 744-5404 or visit our website http://www.oklahomagardening.okstate.edu. Thank you for your continued support!

Sincerely,
Kim Rebek
Oklahoma Gardening Host